FINALLY back at Harder
after being long-sidelined by assorted issues with Seaview
, an involved non-sub model repair project (http://youtu.be/U3fL8Q4PmUM
), and of course, starting up a brand new SubRon.
While buddies Paul and Tom make great strides on their Gatos
' bow, forward deck and shears respectively, I know I need to start with something simple: opening up the fairwater "doorway" and dealing with those pesky propeller guard nubs aft.
After that my plan too is to attack the deck. Unlike Paul and Tom's Mare Island-built boats, however, which should presumably each possess the same teak-to-steel ratio as evidenced today on Silversides
(built alongside Wahoo
at the same time in the same yard), MY boat, Harder
, built by EB, shows up in photos as sporting an all-teak deck the whole length of her hull. I'll start in on that next time, but first…
I decided simplicity was best, so just took an X-Acto to those propeller guard nubs on the stern. Definitely hacked it up a bit, but knew with putty and sanding, my hamfisted approach would eventually come out in the wash. (BTW: the nubs are being removed because I'm not modeling the boat with said guards attached. Most of you guys know these guards were installed for protection while in port, but removed for actual war patrols.)
Now it's time to open up those doors. (Most of the Gatos
I've seen had no doors or hatches here, just open passageways through the fairwater; presumably to make inspecting or servicing the main induction easier, but that's just speculation on my part.) The usual procedure here: drill a string of tiny holes to make the cutting easier. Then attack the hole's rough edges with various Dremel grinding bits, followed by files and sanding sticks to smooth things out. As usual with my work, these doorways are not perfect, but they ain't bad.
Next I attacked the nubs on the other stern piece (after taking a break from it by working on those "doorways"). Found I had much better luck this time using a broader-angled blade. Live and learn.
Now some rough sanding to give "tooth" to the about-to-be applied putty.
I'd originally thought I'd go with my old friend Evercoat Metal Glaze, but it's pretty soft for this application and besides, it's far too smelly to use in the house. Didn't feel like relocating outside at this late hour, so went with another old friend instead: two-part Milliput epoxy putty. It cures very hard overnight and sands well. Better still, it can be smoothed down with water during application for even more sanding ease later.
Here are the puttied stern pieces, curing. Final sanding is next—likely next weekend—then I'll get to try my hand at replacing lost weld lines as others have done.
Sure writing is easy: just sit staring at a blank page until the drops of blood start forming on your forehead.