These is my first post on these forum being New Member . I am going to ASK you kindly to assist/help me and NOT LAUGH to loud about some question I am going to address . I am TOTAL NEWBIE in these and is My first serious attempt to do something such complex like a R/C Submarine . Being at the very first steps in these domain I am affrayed is going to be a very long Built so Please be Patient .
I present You here my project , witch is one of the Los Angeles class . I do not know which will be for , do not know what are the major differences in appearance . As about the scale , here I have a Question: from the measurement sowing in the pictures can You tell me about , approximately what is his scale ? For the moment I have some basic components as: - Upper Hull/Lower Hull made by Glass Fiber and Resin very thick and strong made (don't ask me by ho because I don't know) ...maybe some can tell me by looking at pictures Ho's work is ; - Coning Tower - Front sail - aft end cone - Rudders - dive Planes - and 2 masts - I don't know what are they and where should be put it.....is a small one and Long one ,
Here is what I have don until know :
Looking forward to see Your opinions/comments and if there are people ho did these model maybe I can get in contact with for some advices about how to approach these project .
I have some questions: - what methods are YOU use to properly align rudders and dive planes axes from hull , and 90 degrees to one another ? - how to make perpendicular holes for those axis to the hull ? Some Pictures as example wheel be much appreciated .
How do I align the rudders and stern planes? ---------- I happen to have a Skipjack on the table.
I put slightly over sided holes in the hull after measuring to get the vertical and horizontal holes in place. I make small shaft bearing to support the shafts. In this case the bearing are made of styrene plastic, same as the hull. Makes bonding in easier.
I then put a short rod through the control yoke and put a bearing on each end. I level the lower hull on the table and hold it in place. This makes leveling the shaft easier as well. Once I have everything lined up and level, I tack the support bearings in place. Let harden for a day then remove the shaft. You can also use pieces of brass tubing as the bearings and glue them in place. I like using the plastic blocks for three reasons. 1. Easily bonds to hull. 2. I use the inside surface of the bearing for the yoke bearing so the yokes don't move side to side or up and down. 3. Makes lining up everything easier than just trying to make a hole in the hull straight.
Stern Planes bearing and yoke assembly being fitted.
Rudders and stern plane bearings in place before putting the tail cone together.
Is me again !. Where did buy when you need bronze bushings? ...... some individual/company/sites anywhere? ..... but to sell small quantities of 5-10 units and be reliable ...... meaning someone might purchased and received goods required!.
I need some BUSHINGS for the Propeller shaft , at the aft and at the end of the shaft before the motor connection . And If I find some reliable Place I'll take more for the further projects too .
Also if you have access to broken items like... electrical motors, hard drives, clocks, small drill motors there are bushing bearings inside that could be used if you do not have stores that carry these sorts of parts.
Submarine models run motors at relatively slow RPM so brass tubing can be made to work as bearings. With a couple of small brass washers between the propeller and the tubing face this should also work well.
All these Bushes can be made from SIMPLE BRASS bar , regarding motors run at relatively slow RPM ?. I ask these becouse I have some small NO NAME mini lathe and some materials but my lathe being not very accurate what is TOLERANCE accepted for these ?.
Lining up the plastic bearings inside the tail cone.
1. Make a holes through the hull where the control rods will be coming up. 2. make the plastic bearings. 3. Have a brass rod that will go all the way through both sides of the hull. 4. Put the rod through one hole in the hull/ 5. Put on bearing on the rod. 6. Put a piece of plastic on the rod. 7. Up a long small spring over the rod. 8. put another piece of plastic on the rod. 9. put second bearing on rod. 10. put rod through other side of hull.
The spring will keep pressure on the plastic bearing while the glue cures.
If you want to use short pieces of brass tubing. 1. put the rod through both sides of hull. 2. Put a short piece of brass tubing on each end of brass rod and push in to hull so just a very short piece sticks out of the hull on the outside. 3. On the inside of hull, epoxy the brass tubing pieces in place with out getting epoxy on the brass rod.
In both ways of setting bearings put wax on the brass rod to reduce chances of gluing rod in to bearings. ------------ If you want to make your own bushings, just enlarge the inside hole slowly until your propeller shaft slips in and out easily and turns freely.
EXCELENT , I got it . I think I'll use the second Method because I have made already those small bushes for Rudders and Dive Planes .
Thanks for the part with WAX . Can be used I believe , with the same success White Grease , witch I have enough but wax don't !.
...."If you want to make your own bushings, just enlarge the inside hole slowly until your propeller shaft slips in and out easily and turns freely" I wheel keep in mind that .
I STEEL have a SMALL Problem with AFT . It cames with NO SCRIBING for those AXES . What I NEED to know is WHERE to Drill the Holes ?....as measurement ? . How should I know what is the ORIGIN POINT for those Measurement ?. Nobody had ANY SMALL PLANS , ONLY with these part or at least a Picture ?. If I solve these problem I than can drill the holes . THANK YOU
I can not give you the location of where to put the holes for the control rods. But you can use the measurements of you leading edge of the planes to measure back to where the rod should go in to the hull. Worth noting. The back edge of the rudders and planes are even. The front edges are not.
I can provide a drawing of an Los Angeles class boat with distances marked off. I can provide the associated spread sheet with the numbers of the real boat in millimeters converted to feet to inches. On the same spread sheet the scale numbers are provided. The scale was determined by real numbers you provided from your model converted to known numbers of real boat.
The spread sheet has letters that correspond to the letters on the drawing. Most measurements are from bow to marker location. The numbers are individual and not added together to get a measurement.
Link to drawing On this drawing you will find a link to the spread sheet that goes with this drawing. Spread Sheet is in Excel.
Click on drawing to enlarge. Click on drawing again to enlarge even more.
I made some Hand Sketches with flooding holes for Bow and Aft . I didn't have measurements so I made them at the common sense !. What d You thing Guys ?. They Look realistic enough to be transfered to my model ?.
What are Your suggestion for a successful transfer from paper to model , regarding the model is 3D object and paper is 2d ?
I may be mistaken but I think you have too many flood holes. ----------------- If you click on the link above that goes to the drawing, you can click on the drawing to enlarge then again to enlarge again. It shows far less flood holes than you have on your drawing. Looks like 7 rows for the front group and 9 for the aft group.
This is the only reference I have on flood holes. Having been underneath a couple missile boats in the yards, there were not that many flood holes. Example. Here at all the flood holes on the Skipjack.
The USS George Washington had an additional ballast tank added mid ship to accommodate the missile section (130') It only had 4 flood holes.
Maybe someone knows more about the LA class boat and how the flood holes where arranged. Matt Thor may have information on this.