Good Morning Everybody!
This being the centennial post for my Batfish model, we need to set the mood. In a thread on “Modeling Music” on the odelwarships.com, Tracy posted this. It’s great stuff. Watch it first and celebrate 100!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-CnWwbe ... r_embedded
OK, now we are ready!
Last night, and early this morning, I started on the wood decking for the main deck. As I so often do, I started by importing the plans into AutoCad and scaling them. The image below shows the plans with my tracings of significant features in red. The lower image shows these tracings copied to the model, and also shows the extent of the wood deck on Batfish in magenta. You can see that the wood deck extends forward past the companionway, where it stops in the plans, to the forward edge of the wildcat access. It also extends well aft of the hatch to the crew’s quarters, as in the plans, all the way back to the aft escape hatch.
That’s the first main difference between the plans and Batfish. The second main difference is that the plans show the 5”/25 gun mount in the forward position. Batfish, currently, does not have a deck gun forward or aft. However, I am considering putting one aft, where Tom D said it was February 10-13, 1945, when Batfish sank the 3 Japanese submarines. The unanswered question remains, “Was the fairweather/bridge/mast configuration, as it is now, on the ship at the same time that the aft deck gun was installed?” If so, great, even if it wasn’t like this in February. If not it would be inconsistent. Still, I’m thinking about adding it anyway. It would be a good talking point for those that know their sh*t, and cool to look at it for those of us that are clueless.
Another difference between my design and the real deal is the cross- section of the battens used to make the deck. The image below shows the detail of the battens, as shown in the plans. You can see that the real ones are 2” x 1-1/2” with a 3/16” chamfer and a 3/4" spacing between battens. At 1/144 scale the battens would be 0.014” x 0.01” with 0.001” chamfers and a spacing of 0.005”, which could probably be printed, but would be too fragile to work with on a model. The mage shows my design for comparison. It is 0.02” x 0.02” with no chamfer (it is just too small) and a spacing of 0.008”, which at real scale would be 2-7/8” square with a 1-5/32” spacing. These dimensions worked out pretty good on the hatch covers, so I thought I would try it for the entire model.
So I copied a slew of the battens side by side using the 0.008” spacing, and then added a base to the battens making the total thickness, from the bottom of the base to the top of the battens 0.05”.
Next, I extruded the battens and the base aft and joined it all together.
The image below shows the extruded deck copied to the side. On the other side are the tracings of the deck both from the plans, and as I added to match Batfish. I have copied the tracings to my deck template. Note that they are referenced to parallel coordinate systems for ease of location.
Here is another image of it after I had trimmed and joined the tracings to form a closed polyline.
Next I copied Part 2 (and a section of the track) to the drawing using the common coordinate system I have on all of my parts.
At this point I sliced the deck template at the aft end of the part, extruded the outline down through the remaining part of the deck…
…And used the Intersect command to make the deck. Note that on the real ship the ends of the battens are cut square (at least they are on Batfish now), and I considered doing that, but the wider battens leave too big of gaps.
I next extruded and subtracted the (open polyline) outline for the forward escape hatch…
…and sliced the deck using the surface just created.
Although I didn’t document it, I next sliced the battens off of the hatch base, rearranged them and widened the inner ones and drew an outline for the handholes (in the wrong location).
I extruded the handhole to the bottom of the battens, moved it, copied it to the other locations seen in Tom’s pic…
…And subtracted them.
Next I extruded outlines of the messenger buoy and companionway through the deck…
…And subtracted them creating the finished “wood” deck for Part 2.
I next copied the completed deck over to the model.
After aligning the wood deck with the model deck, I moved it up out of the way, then copied it down in short increments into the deck, subtracting the wood deck from the part each time.
I then lowered the wood deck into position on the model. The images below show the finished product.
I must say that I am really pleased with the way it came out, although I haven’t joined it to the part yet, in case there is an issue I don’t know about yet. It sure was a lot of fun and I have more to do. Oh Boy!