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USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

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Re: USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

Postby rdutnell » Sun May 19, 2013 7:37 am

UPDATE 57


Well guys, I couldn’t stand it. Even though I still have some parts to add to the top, which may require re-spraying, I had to take the masking tape off to see how she looks. I am pleased with the results.

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CHEERS!!!
rdutnell
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Re: USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

Postby rdutnell » Sun May 19, 2013 9:58 am

UPDATE 58

Good Morning Again Everybody!

After I took the masking tape off of the bottom of the hull, I started thinking about the draft numbers on the ship. I wondered if the 1/350 scale aircraft tail numbers that I have would work. I pulled them out, and lo’ and behold, they looked about the perfect size, so I added the appropriate numbers to the rudder.

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I think it looks pretty good, except that, as is typical for decals, at some angles the reflection from the surface that the numbers are printed on is pretty dominant. I’m hoping that this effect will be eliminated or at least reduced when I clear coat it. I don't know. Maybe I should have clear coat it first.

CHEERS!
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Re: USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

Postby rdutnell » Sun May 19, 2013 2:31 pm

UPDATE 59

Back again guys. I hope everybody is having a good Sunday, because I certainly am.

I decided that, even though I can’t complete the model until I receive the fairings that are being printed, I would go ahead and assemble what I could. So, using parts of two paperclips, the only non 3D printed items that will be included in the model, I attached first the dive planes, and then the rudders. The fit on the dive planes is so tight that I didn’t even need to glue the paper clip in place, and the planes are moveable like planned. The rudders were also tight, perhaps too tight, because they had to be glued (Super Glue), due to the way they are attached, and when I try to turn one, it comes unglued from the paperclip. I could try to take it apart and sand the posts and bases a bit more to get it to be moveable, or I could just leave them the way they are. For now, I’m doing the latter.

The process was delayed TWICE because I grabbed the upper rudder incorrectly with slightly sweaty fingers, and guess what? I had decals on my fingers. Fortunately they were still stuck together, so I simply put a small drop of water on the rudder and touched my finger to it and the decals stayed. I then just realigned them. The 2nd time was somewhat frustrating, but was again easily repaired.

After this, I dry fit the screw and dunce cap and took her outside for some pictures. Enjoy!

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To this point, I couldn’t be happier. I really had no idea, when I started trying to turn the plans into a 3D model in AutoCad that I would ever be where I am. Although it is not nearly as detailed, nor as expertly built as so many models on this forum, it exceeds the expectations I had when I started tracing the plan hull sections to make the 3D model. I certainly never dreamed that I would end up with a model that would be entirely “printed” on a 3D printer (with the exception of the paper clips that aren’t visible). And what fun it has been!

I can’t do too much more until I get the two fairings, although there are a few places I can touch up with paint, especially around the rudder bases and on the ends of the dive planes. I was thinking that I could spray some of the paint into a small jar and brush it on. Are there any problems with doing this that I am unaware of, besides potential brush strokes?

I can also apply the draft numbers on the bow, as they aren’t too close to the location where the GNATS sonar jammer fairing will be attached. If I need to spray the area around the fairing, I can mask the numbers off with newspaper.

The other major thing that I want to do, that I could also do before the fairings arrive, is to demark the anti-skid coating area. However, I don’t know how best to do that. Does anybody have any suggestions?

I’m thinking that I could either use Rust-Oleum’s “Hammered Paint” or “Stone Spray”, or a dark, dark gray. But I am afraid the former might be too much for the scale, and I don’t know about the dark gray. How do you guys do it?

Oh, and now that you have seen the pictures, let me know if I am missing something, or should do something to make it better.

CHEERS!!!
rdutnell
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Re: USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

Postby rdutnell » Tue May 21, 2013 10:35 am

UPDATE 60

Good Morning Everybody!

I’m sure that you have heard about the massive tornado that went through Oklahoma City and Moore yesterday. Fortunately, it was about 6 miles north of us, and we barely got any rain. The center of it went a mile south of my parents, who were in their storm cellar, and ½ mile north of my brother’s. He said that they watched it coming and could tell it was going to miss them, so they watched it from their front yard. He said that he has a lot of cleanup to do because there is small debris everywhere, but that he suffered no damaged. As you have seen many, many people were not so fortunate.

The amazing thing about this storm is that a news helicopter was filming it as it grew from a wall cloud, formed a few small funnels, which bounced up and down before reaching the ground. The tornado then went up and down a few times before staying on the ground, at which point it just started growing and growing, and you could see debris flying everywhere. It was sad, because already there was massive destruction, and this all happened in a short period of time right as it was starting to get to south Oklahoma City and Moore, so you knew what was going to happen. At first I was worried about my parents, but it went more east than northeast (which was good for them but bad because whenever tornados “take a right turn” they get bigger). With the great radar they have these days and the video, you knew exactly where the storm was, and where it was heading, more or less. With my parents safe, I really started worrying about my brother, because the beast was making a beeline to his house. I called him to warn him and he was outside watching it. Even as I talked to him he wasn’t sure if he was going to have to jump in the cellar or not. Before we hung up he said the he thought they were going to dodge a bullet, and he was right, it drifted a little north and he was spared. My heart goes out to all of those poor people, and to make it worse, it’s raining again.

Of far less import (and I almost feel guilty writing this knowing what so many people just minutes away are going through), before the storms, I decided to lay out a template for painting the anti-skid s surface, so I printed the plans to scale, and starting with the forward section taped it over some 3M “EdgeLock” masking tape applied to a flat metal bar…

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…And cut out the anti-skid area.

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I did the same for the aft end.

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I then removed the tape and plans and put the cutout masking tape pieces in their proper locations, and laid straight pieces of the masking tape between the ends on both sides.

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After a trip to the hobby store, where I looked at various colors of black, I decided to use Model Master Acrylic “Aircraft Interior Black” to paint the anti-skid area. So when I got home I gave it two coats.

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An hour or so later, I removed the masking tape.

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As you can see from the close-up shots, my inexperience at modeling once again revealed itself, as there are a few places where the Interior Black seeped under the masking tape. I thought the expensive 3M “EdgeLock” was supposed to prevent that. In any case, now I have to try to correct it, and I’m not sure of the best way to go about it. I’m thinking that perhaps I can wet sand the non-anti-skid areas with 1000 grit sandpaper, but I’m afraid this would scuff up the surface which I definitely don’t want. If I go this route, I will do my touchup painting with the flat black first. So close, yet so far.

The other thing I did yesterday is to try to make a template for the hull number, in the same manner that I used previously. I only did one, and I’m not sure that I like it, so I went to 3 stores looking for ¼” decals without success. A brief search on the internet failed as well, so I guess I will make a few of them and pick the best two. In any case, getting the cutouts for the 4 and 6 properly located will be challenging.

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CHEERS!!!
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Re: USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

Postby Scott T » Tue May 21, 2013 11:25 am

Glad to hear your family is safe. The lives lost make you want to cry!

You might try to scrape the paint runs with the edge of your hobby knife very gently to remove the runs or
maybe a wood stick or finger nail.

Scott
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Re: USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

Postby salmon » Tue May 21, 2013 7:47 pm

I am relieved that my friends in OK are o.k.
A little touch up is needed, but what a wonderful sub you have created.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
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Re: USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

Postby rdutnell » Wed May 22, 2013 10:59 am

UPDATE 61

Hi everybody, and thanks Scott and Tom!

I’m glad to hear that you are safe too Scott, and I know what you mean. As I watched the tornado grow on the outskirts of the city, I had tears in my eyes knowing what was about to happen, and the pictures and stories on TV are too heart wrenching to watch. People’s lives destroyed and torn apart, many with nothing left except the clothes on their backs. It really puts things in perspective and makes me appreciate how fortunate I am. In fact, the very weather that spawned the deadly tornado that hit Moore has also brought much needed rain to our watershed, and is allowing me to finally collect the data I need for my research. I can’t help but feel a little bit guilty about that.

The fact that I am finally able to collect data is putting a bit of a damper on my modeling time, although I still found time to test the ship number template I made. In fact, I decided to test both the masking tape and the paper/scotch tape templates, so I attached them both to a test piece, and to try to prevent the paint running under the templates applied a coat of Tamiya clear acrylic to them.

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When the clear coat dried, I applied three coats of Testor’s white enamel (the only white I have).

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When the paint was mostly dry, I removed the paper/scotch tape template and it was terrible. The paint had bled all underneath it.

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When I peeled off the masking tape template, the results were encouraging…

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…Because even though I didn’t allow the paint to fully dry and did a rough job removing the template, the numbers don’t look too bad. The question is, can I make them nice enough to put on the model? I’m pretty sure I can get the 1 and 4 sharp enough. The 6 is the difficult one. I might have to try another test before I try it on the model, and if I can find 0.2”-0.25” white decals, or rub-ons, I might even consider buying them.

CHEERS!!!
rdutnell
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Re: USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

Postby Tom Dougherty » Wed May 22, 2013 5:00 pm

First and foremost, glad to hear you are safe!! It is a heartbreaker to see the destruction that the tornado caused.

As far as hull numbers for you model, how about these decals? http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/woo/woodt507.htm
They are in various sizes, and made for the model train crowd.
Tom Dougherty
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Project Azorian Book: http://www.usni.org/store/catalog-fall-2012/project-azorian
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Re: USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

Postby rdutnell » Thu May 23, 2013 9:40 am

Thanks Tom!!!

I really appreciate the link. The ones shown aren’t the right font, because they are rounded. You can really see it on the number 6. However, after looking through the Hobbylinc site, with no luck, I went to the Woodland Scenics site and struck pay dirt with these: http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics. ... 747/page/1.

I was in the process of checking out, but the shipping charge was almost as much as the product, so I think I will wait and go to my local hobby store and see if they can order them. I’ll bet I can get them cheaper. If not I’ll spend the $13. They will save a LOT of time and look far better.

Also, FYI… SgtRyan13, on the Modelwarships.com site kindly suggested that I remove the draft number decals and spray a gloss coat and then reapply them. If you have seen his work, you know that I would be stupid not to follow his advice, so I am going to remove them when I get a chance, which doesn’t look like it’s going to be today. It’s raining again.
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Re: USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

Postby Scott T » Thu May 23, 2013 1:18 pm

The water is moving fast... don't fall in.
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Re: USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

Postby Tom Dougherty » Thu May 23, 2013 1:37 pm

SgtRyan13, on the Modelwarships.com site kindly suggested that I remove the draft number decals and spray a gloss coat and then reapply them


Yep, that is SOP when applying decals. Sorry, I keep forgetting you are new to this. The gloss surface allows the decal to set down well with no air bubbles. Then, after they are dry, coat again with dull coat (at least for submarines). The decal film will be virtually invisible.
Tom Dougherty
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Project Azorian Documentary: http://www.projectjennifer.at/
Project Azorian Book: http://www.usni.org/store/catalog-fall-2012/project-azorian
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Re: USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

Postby rdutnell » Thu May 23, 2013 11:01 pm

Thanks Tom, but there is no need for apologies. You have been ever so helpful from the get-go. One of the things that has been cool about this project is all of the input I have been receiving from various people to help me. Redoing the decals won’t be that tough although it will be more difficult since the rudder is attached now. Based on what I know now, I guess I could have clear coat just the rudder, applied the decals and dull coat it before I even assembled it to the hull, but for the sake of future builds, is it wiser to assemble everything before the clear coat stage, or is it OK to do it in pieces before assembly?

Also, when you guys say gloss coat, I assume you mean Future, or something similar. Is that correct? Because, my plan was to spray it with Future when construction is complete (i.e. I put the fairings on it), to protect it, and then paint it with a clear dull coat. I just didn’t think about waiting to apply the decals after the Future. If this doesn’t sound right, what would you recommend?

On another note, my hobby store ordered the decals for the ship numbers, which will be in Monday. The timing may be perfect, because the creeks and rivers I'm studying are FULL, if not overflowing. I have collected more data in the last 3 days than in the previous year and a half, and rain is forecast for the next 3 days as well. Even if we don’t get any more rain I will be able to collect data for the next 2 days at least. YEEEAAAAHHHHH!!!!
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Re: USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

Postby rdutnell » Fri May 24, 2013 2:31 am

UPDATE 62

Greetings everybody!

This post is less of an update and more of a plea for help. The only real progress I made was that I removed the draft numbers from the rudder. The only other thing I have done is try to remove the spots where the interior black bled onto the flat black. I first tried to use the end of a chopstick to gently scrape it off. I wasn’t happy with this, so I tried to wet sand it with 1000 grain sand paper. This seemed better, but I am not happy with the results.

You can see on the sail planes that this removed the interior black, but also lightened the flat black.

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The same thing can be seen in the area at the aft end of the anti-skid surface.

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You can also see where I tried to sand a scratch (that who knows where came from) with the same lightening effect.

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I was pretty happy with the paint job, except for the little flaws, but in the process of trying to fix them I think I made them worse. I have some other issues now too. There are shiny spots on the surface that I have no idea as to what they are or how they got there.

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These look like insect slime of some sort?

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There are also some minor surfaces that came from me stupidly putting the model on the hard plastic stand without anything soft between it and the model. Oops!

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These don’t look like scratches, but perhaps they are.

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And I have no idea what that “Stain”(that I just noticed) is on the lower aft end (lower left), nor where it came from.

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This is where the plea for help comes in. How in the heck do I fix it without sanding it again, masking it off, and giving it another coat, which I really don’t want to do, unless it is the only way. I was thinking that I could spray the paint into a jar and brush it on to cover the spots, but I have no idea if I could blend it, since I have no experience with this problem. It could make it worse. I just thought about spraying without doing a complete masking job, like maybe taping newspaper around an area and spot spraying that area. Blending might still be an issue, but it seems like it might blend better than if I brushed it on. Perhaps a combination of brushing and spraying would be best? I have no idea. What are your thoughts guys?
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Re: USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

Postby Tom Dougherty » Fri May 24, 2013 3:18 pm

I would have to say that I would attempt another spray coat after masking. How many coats did you use the first time around? Brushing usually doesn't blend in very well with sprayed coats (at least when I have tried it). You can get away with relatively light coats, as it really is "touch up". Then after it dries, inspect the surface carefully and if happy, hit it with Future acrylic spray. Let that dry, add decals, then hit it with Dullcoat to take down the shine. That way, there is a hard, clear layer between your paint job and any objects that might scratch the surface.

Also, to hold the model, put some foam rubber or paper towels on your cradle to minimize scratches while you are spraying.
Tom Dougherty
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Re: USS Greenling (SSN-614) Scratchbuild

Postby rdutnell » Sat May 25, 2013 11:46 am

Hmmm…. How many coats?

On the hull:
2 coats of the Tamiya primer, that I mostly sanded off.
5 coats of the gray Rust-Oleum primer
4 coats of the oxide red Dupli-Color primer
5 coats of flat black Rust-Oleum protective enamel

I was afraid that brushing wouldn’t blend well, which is why I asked. I think what I will do is mask it off in preparation for another coat of red oxide on the bottom, but I don’t think that I will actually paint it, until I get the fairings put on, to minimize handling after this (hopefully) final coat. Then I will do the flat black, followed by Future, decals, and Dullcoat.

Paper towels have been in place since I first noticed what was happening.

CHEERS!!!
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