Tom, I really like your work there. I'm partial to the 3/4" anchor myself. Images of the anchors on the real boats show them sticking proud of the hull quite a bit. I think in this case bigger is better.
Super cool railings. That square forward platform is really nice and will make your boat striking when tied up to the tender with the rest of us. Hard to believe Wahoo and Trigger started out so closely configured.
Jeff, I think your hull template is ready for the Sadie Hawkins dance.
Look, Ma, no rubber bands! At least not to hold the stern halves and parts together. I finally got the stern tube shutters to a point where I was okay with installing them. With that done I could take the plunge and glue the halves together. The plastic weld I'm using really works well -- and quickly! I'm liking it from an assembly standpoint.
Below is a close-up look of the control surface are broken down. You can see the vertical cut in the skeg piece to make the part that captures the stern planes removable. The forward part of the skeg was welded in place permanently. There is a small hole between the stern plane shaft housing and the rudder bearing. That was a hole I tapped for a 2-56 machine screw.
Here are the running gear pieces laid out. Stern hull section, stern planes, removable skeg piece with machine screw, and rudder.
Below, the assembled stern planes and rudder. The flat machine screw was countersunk to fit flush to the skeg piece. The rudder covers it during normal operations. I like hiding hull fasteners on my boats! I'll either put another one forward of the stern plane control arm or glue a key to the underside of the upper skeg so it will be captured by the hull. Haven't decided yet.
Thanks to CI Protchenko for sharing the screw size he used on his boat. If I'm not mistaken, he was the first to install the skeg in this way back in the day. For those scoring at home, the fastener is a 2-56 x 7/16 Flat Phillips Machine Screw in 18-8 stainless. Don't worry, TomK and JeffP, I have you covered.