Let's see if this helps.....I'm sure others will chime in as well....
1. What is the best way to place servo's/autopitch/motor...etc. To decrease "Noise""?
Two things come readily to mind: place as much separation between the motor and everything else and keep the servo wires away from the power leads to the motor. The other is to install capacitors on the motor - see this link for some very good details: http://www.ezonemag.com/pages/faq/a418.shtml
2. My reciever has anice long white antena wire. Best way to place that? Can I wrap it around the interior along WTC wall? Can I have it attach to a piece of wire that exits WTC to get more reception? Any help here would be great.
First thing to remember is that the length of the antenna wire should not be changed. It's a specific length based on the frequency/wavelength of the r/c system. That said, some folks will wrap the antenna back and forth inside the dive module. This is not always the best solution as it can limit the range in which you can control the sub. A better solution is to have the antenna exit the dive module and run the length (back and forth if necessary) of the hull. To do this you can just run it through a hole in the end cap of the dive module....but be sure to seal it up with something like RTV. At better way would be to drill and tap a hole in the end cap and then screw in a short piece of threaded rod and glue it into place. Then cut the antenna wire and use the threaded rod (with appropriate washers and nuts) to bridge between the inside and outside of the dive module.
If you do run the antenna outside the dive module you must
ensure that any part of the antenna wire that is exposed to the water is sealed to prevent it grounding out.
3. My Auto pitch has a failsafe. I was thinking of hooking it up to a servo. Which will push a rod into a disposible 12gram CO2 cartridge. And funnel that into the ballast tank. Just for emergancies.
Hmmm.....I don't think your average servo will be able to drive a rod into a CO2 cartridge and pierce it.
4. How the hell do I wire a 12v car water pump into my reciever? Just red/black to a red black futuba?
You don't...at least not directly. You will need some sort of r/c controllable switch that would then control the pump. Something like the SubTech SES.
5. How do you build good DIY control yokes for my front dive planes?
The sort answer is brass rod/sheet and Dubro collars. The longer answer is that you need to fabricate control horns from Dubro collars and some sheet brass. The collars need to be of the correct diameter for the pivot rods of your dive planes. Do a web search on r/c control horn to see what they look like. Once that's done you can run a brass rod from each back towards the dive module...at some point where it is convenient the two rods are joined together to yield a single rod, which then goes to and through the end cap.
This description really needs a couple of diagrams! Perhaps someone has one handy?
6. AND LAST!!!!!! Can I have a push rod exit the back of the WTC but bend up and over. Past the WTC to the front to control those control arms? Is that a bad idea?
A number of folks do just that....works fine.