Do note that the real Akula has retractable bow planes, so you may want to consider this.
As for the kit, you should really buy the thing first, build it, then decide the upgrades you want for the Akula. I've thought up two upgrades that you should apply to the boat, one being to make the boat a static diver, and another to super detail the boat, as the boat in kit form is really plain, no fittings, no scribing, etc.
The WTC should be replaced from the start, as it isn't a good design, because first of, you seal off your electronics so much that access is limited to the size of a bottle cap, second, it is really 'cheap', as it is quite thin, and last of all, it is not cylinderical, so it does not withstand pressure very well at all. This is a problem as I would think that the "land of a thousand lakes" has some very deep lakes, so if you lose the boat, it is very likely that it would be crushed.
Also, there are some important key components missing, mainly a pitch controller, and a fail safe. The pitch controller is needed to keep the sub level, and as one saying goes, "Each model submarine that runs faster than a snail needs a pitch controller" You may also add a depth controller to help the sub remain at periscope depth. There is a pitch and depth controller for sale, so if you want to have these two devices, then you can have them in one unit. The stern planes get connected to the pitch controller, the bow planes to the depth controller.
As for the fail safe, the most important one you need in my opinion is a "missing pulse detector". This device automatically empties the ballast tank if the RC signal is lost, so you don't come home with nothing except a transmitter. There are other fail safes out there too like one that monitors the charge level in the battery, so if it falls under a certain level, it will empty the ballast tank. Also, you could install a leak dectector, so if a major leak occurs, the sub will surface. There is one last fail safe I know of, and it involves using a pressure switch to limit the possible depth your sub may be at. For example, let's say you don't want the sub to descend beyond 4 feet, so you set up the pressure switch to trigger at a depth of 4 feet, so it does not go any deeper.
Don't be too fancy on this boat, it is just a starter kit.
If you have any more questions then post them!
Just making sure you are on the right track.
All the best, and good luck. Alex
The job ain't done when you are on the couch watching football 2 hours early.