Well, gee, I dunno, such a stress and burden to have to show off and talk about myself
Boats are dynamic diving and ballasted to default to surface. 2 foot boat has been as far as 7ft down. Can likely do better in a bigger pool.
Way back in the 1970s grade school days parents got my brother and I a ships book which had a series of simple projects in the back culminating in a very simple balsa wood submarine about 2 feet long. Only took 31 years to get around to building it. Or, more accurately, building something based on it. Used ideas picked from subs all through history and around the planet adjusted to fit model's balsa slab construction. And to quote a quote, "And I made a few modifications myself."
Of course model/toy in book was non-scale: just because I had a bunch of 1/72 figures left from the wargaming days it got called 1/72 scale. Tiny little 144ft boat, then. Called it PRS-1, which in no way resembles any real-world USN designations, but then my little sub lives it its own universe anyway. PRS is for "Pool Recreation Submarine" or "Powered by Rubberband Submarine"
Since then have built a couple more similar for other people and now building a 3ft twin screw job for me. Hadn't before put the drawings for this twin-screw rubberband powered sub together before and didn't quite realize the size of what I'd created.
Will be fictional cargo transport with hull shape sub based on USSR Typhoon boomers and current Northrop Grumman research model. Supposedly my model uses cylindrical containers faired in to hull sides.
Think it's gonna be called 1/144 scale which will make people 1/2 the size of the 1/72 blue plastic Navy guys; but then y'all will already know that scale relationship. Might even call it N Scale since there are more people and stuff for model RRs than model airliners.
Drawings aren't finished, need to add fairing between aft cones.
Hull will be free-flooding with a number of holes along sides and over rubber motor pegs.
Going to be "pseudo-fiberglassed" with shellac and Silkspan plane tissue.
And need to do something to "armour" the bow against pool wall strikes because even that little single-screw 2 footer can tag the far wall while still 5ft under on a good wind.
A good wind will have enough torque to list that boat by around 10 degrees while you hold the prop before letting it go.
If I can pull off scratching kort nozzles for the 3ft beast even I won't be able to tolerate my ego for about a month.
Although on a rubber prop it wiggles enough that there will have to be enough clearance to probably negate the effect.
Props are from Traxxis RC speedboats. Will get pic showing how shaft is made with wire, brass tube, a rubber airplane thrust button and a Losi RC car differential thrust ball bearing. Prop is drilled in end for a small eye screw to pass airplane winder hook through.
Gonna be painted in Chessie System locomotive colors - a reference to Chesapeake & Ohio RR which refers to Chesapeake Bay. I do model trains too.
Oh, on that Photobucket album, haven't figured out how to get PB to put images in order I want them in after they are in there.