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WET CONNECTIONS

R/C Submarine modelers

WET CONNECTIONS

Postby Kerry Addington » Mon Jun 20, 2011 12:36 pm

For exposed-to-water electrical connections like a battery or WTC endcap power connections, what is your preferred substance for coating/protecting from corrosion?
Dielectric grease?
WD-40?
Boeshield T-9 ?
All feedback much appreciated,
Kerry
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Re: WET CONNECTIONS

Postby Bigdave » Mon Jun 20, 2011 4:58 pm

I use Stuph but you can't buy it anymore so I keep it under lock and key. :lol:
Corrosion-X works well too. BD.

http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx.html
Last edited by Bigdave on Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: WET CONNECTIONS

Postby Kerry Addington » Mon Jun 20, 2011 5:04 pm

Thanks as always, BD !
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Re: WET CONNECTIONS

Postby Bigdave » Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:19 am

Hi Kerry,
How is that monster Seaview coming? :D BD.
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Re: WET CONNECTIONS

Postby Kerry Addington » Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:42 am

Well put, BD. She is indeed a monster.
First float test in primer two weekends ago proved my bilge pump-in-the-ballast-tank system far too slow and leak prone, so I am furiously ripping and refitting the tank for snorting. Frankenstein's belly now reduced to a mere 90 oz. capacity.
Hoping to be back in the swim for this weekend's SubRon6 FunRun at Carmel. I'll either be screaming
"It's... Alive !!!", or I'll jump in the pond and push it around like Peter Lorre with the shark.

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Re: WET CONNECTIONS

Postby Thor » Tue Jun 21, 2011 11:26 am

Looking forward to seeing you and Seaview at the Regatta!
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Re: WET CONNECTIONS

Postby Sub culture » Tue Jun 21, 2011 2:12 pm

Where was it leaking, and what pump were you using?

If you want to snort, have a look at these pumps- http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10398

They move a lot of air, one may do, but you can always parallel up another if it's too slow for you.
'Why are you staring at an empty pond?'

Want to dive your boat in crystal clear water? Then you had better Dive-in- http://www.diveintomodelsubmarines.co.uk
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Re: WET CONNECTIONS

Postby Kerry Addington » Tue Jun 21, 2011 3:34 pm

As usual, great comment and help from you sir.
I will check those snort pumps.
The bilge pump I was using (rule 500gph) worked just fine. The air induction mast on the sail to have any believable scale was about 3/16" diameter-I think insufficient air was getting into the tank and some vaccuum backup/hiccups
were taking place. I really didn't have much opportunity to observe or tweak operation as my flood vent valve mounted sideways was not sealing correctly as one might suspect..and one canceled out the other.
So, I'm putting the solenoid vent on top and hopefully snorting toward this weekends FunRun. A vent/fill valve mounted on the underside of the tank is not an option for me. This DeBoer hull is a masterpiece and stronger than my car,but mid-1990's vintage, thick-walled and heavy. Foam everywhere and a 90-ounce tank sitting entirely below the waterline is just enough to get her up and proud.
-Kerry
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Re: WET CONNECTIONS

Postby Bigdave » Tue Jun 21, 2011 5:53 pm

That looks like an OLLLLLLLLDDDDDD Subtech vent valve. :roll: :lol:
I had one of them in my 1/48 Fleet boat back in 1994. :shock: :lol:
Just shows you quality items will last forever. :mrgreen:
If you have to lift a big hull it is hard to beat a low pressure air system. That is how the bigboys do it!! :D BD.
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Re: WET CONNECTIONS

Postby Kerry Addington » Tue Jun 21, 2011 6:29 pm

BD misses nothing! That is indeed a mid-90's vintage Skip Asay with the Matt Thor mod package.
Nothing but the best for this big girl.
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Re: WET CONNECTIONS

Postby Sub culture » Wed Jun 22, 2011 5:00 am

The vent valve should be on the bottom of the tank, not the side.

The snort system is really the water pump system turned upside down, up until a couple of weeks back I couldn't recommend it for a very large boat like this, because pumps of adequate displacement were difficult to source, that's no longer the case however with the availability of the Sparkfun pumps.
'Why are you staring at an empty pond?'

Want to dive your boat in crystal clear water? Then you had better Dive-in- http://www.diveintomodelsubmarines.co.uk
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Re: WET CONNECTIONS

Postby Bigdave » Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:39 am

How would you vent the air out the bottom?
My vent valves are all on top .
The side would only work to the height of the valve.
I feel time is but an issue with the low pressure air.
As the boat is already at the surface with the primary system I really don't care how long it takes the LPA to make the boat hit waterline. It will get there eventually. LOL!! BD.
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Re: WET CONNECTIONS

Postby Sub culture » Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:52 am

I was referring to the water pump system, Dave. The tank is vented at the top via a mast, and has no valve, to fill the tank, you open a valve at the bottom of the tank, the tank free floods with gravity.

To empty the tank, you use a centrifugal pump, the valve is closed, and the pump started this empties out the tank, with the vent at the top allowing air in.
'Why are you staring at an empty pond?'

Want to dive your boat in crystal clear water? Then you had better Dive-in- http://www.diveintomodelsubmarines.co.uk
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Re: WET CONNECTIONS

Postby Bigdave » Wed Jun 22, 2011 8:52 am

Got ya!! :D I figured it was a miscomunication somewhere. :wink: BD.
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Re: WET CONNECTIONS

Postby Sub culture » Wed Jun 22, 2011 9:19 am

For the snort system, naturally a vent at the top, and free flood holes of large cross section at the bottom.

A solenoid valve might be a bit slow to vent, a servo controlled poppet valve sealed with a o-ring would do the trick, and you can size the valve to suit.
'Why are you staring at an empty pond?'

Want to dive your boat in crystal clear water? Then you had better Dive-in- http://www.diveintomodelsubmarines.co.uk
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