I was thinking, why only two lights, when I have all those open doors? I also increased the output of the forward LEDs to maximum brightness.
As shown here using a standard 9 volt battery for testing, the system, and boat will be 12 volts.
I was looking at the model, about to start building the standard Akula nav lights, when I looked up on my top bench, and an idea hit me! My Manley 1/96 (same scale) Kilo had fixed navlights on the sail. Cool!!
No building folding light covers, hydrodynamic shape, and fixed!! Quicker dive times
I also tossed the idea of building the flashing yellow light on a stick that goes on the starboard side, and mounted it instead, flush in the center of the sail, just behind the emergancy module on the top. Still international comliant, and now can fast dive without touching the lights
After two different methods were tried to cast them from the Kilo sail, I got determined and took some chunks of resin casting scrapes ,grinded, filed, and sanded those dudes into shape :
Clean, yes? And yet, very Russian
You can see I also filled in the evil looking scribing that wraps around the front of the sail. It is correct, but subtle on the full size boats. I also changed the square on the side to an angle cut on one side. It is correct to photographs.
Nav lights, of course, have LEDs installed.
The bow light installed. The marker bouy I removed about 1/3 of the thickness, to get near scale, and beveled the edge. I then found a clear 5mm LED and flattened it a little, mounting it on the center. It has a red flasher circuit. This is wired into the "unconventional submurged lighting " circuit with the torpedo lights. 4 more will be added to the lower hull aimed straight down, for a total lighting count of 20 on this hull!
Here, you can see the computer cable I used for the upper hull harness for the LEDs. Lightweight, flat, and neatly bundled. The weird looking resin thing at the front is where the bow light and marker bouy are. I built that so nothing would be in the way of the final bubbles escaping while the boat is diving.
All LEDs are resin sealed with their respective resistors.
The attack periscope is kept simple. I built a capture tube that the scope slides up and locks into the up position with a 45 degree rotation. When not needed, just twist and drop.
While messing around with the hull, I kept looking at the pump jet. It just did not look right. So, I changed the stinger coming out of the shroud to similar to the real Alrosa Kilo pumpjet, and the new CAD drawing of the new Borei. Since they where the same, that was confirmation enough for me.
I did blow up a second pump jet on the Taig lathe. Dang!! Fortunately, I had purchased several from Pete. These are really nice parts, like the rest of his work.
Anyway, it looks more "Russian" now, and I am satisfied.
I also corrected the starboard Orca towed array. While the X tail is mounted correctly, I noticed the tip was not level. Rather take a beating than do it. But , this is too far along to let it slide. The dremel came out, and it got cut off and correctly reattached. It was visible in earlier photos.
The mail guy brought me something while I was tinkering.
The wtc I ordered from Rick at RPM Modeling. He sent me the exact same wtc that fits in his 1/72 Kilo.
3 inch diameter, twin tanks, and real nice craftsmanship. Wow! It fits pretty well below the waterline, so the two tanks (500 ml displacement), should be able to be used efficently. With two tanks, minor trim adjustments, and setting to hover (the thing that really impresses me in an r/c submarine--perfect balance), should be doable.
I will finish detailing the upper, then fit the tow halves together, then get to mounting that dude
I will be back later for more... after I take a submarine ride