A quick update here on where I am with the Jack.
All the moulds have been completed and I am now making my own personal boat for extensive testing performance measuring, and manual photos. Take note that the boat isn’t painted yet, it’s all in my pigmented epoxy layup and surface coat. Now people can do their pre-painted test runs in style! Some other notes; the scope rack has worked out quite well although it still needs minor trimming to properly align the scopes inside the sail still. I can live with that that however. The gearbox has passed initial trials for function and installed quite easily into the back of the boat. This too needed minor modifications from my initial setup to move the assembly further to the back of the boat in order to get the wtc ballast tank more centered.
Hi Guys, Been a long time since I've posted a damn thing...anywhere!
Here is what I have been up to anyways; finished the paint job on the Jackfish. Antifoul red up to midway, 50/50 antifoul red and dark grey from midway to the waterline, very dark grey waterline up and ultra dark grey for the nonslip and then clearcoated to an orange peeled for textured finish on that part. Light grey for the scopes, seagrean for the fiberglass antena, and sharpie marker for the lepard spots. All of the was sealed in with automotive Kustom Klear flattened urethane thinned with a urethane reducer. I might try my hand at weathering this baby...later!
Zincs, capstans and cleats are all cast white metal. Mbt ballast tank vents, capstan tops and seawater intakes and discharges are stainless steel photoetch
Yes, For the masters I machined Alumilite for the hub and formed all the blades from styrene, giving them a uniform shape using an appropriatiately shaped metal jig to trim to. Heat was used to conform the helical twist in the styrene blades to the metal jig. Next time i'll just use white metal blades...much quicker now that my metal casting has become more proficient The reproduction props are carbon fiber painted brass and were drilled and tapped after curing to accept a setscrew. Check it out if you want, I documented how I built these earlier in this build.
Pitch for the props is 1.25 diameter for the front and double that for the aft screw. Theoretically this boat should move pretty good, but I'll post all my test results as they come in.
To get her wet I need to get the subdriver 3.5 and a few other do-dads for her. She's a really big expensive static model in my really big empty fish tank. Until then, I'm going to spend my free time trying to seriously get back pluggin away on the Seawolf...
Hi Tom, The plan is to get her in the water in the next few weeks if I can a few spare moments. All of the masters and moulds for this model are completed, so you won't see any more building for this boat. Check out my Seawolf build though...I should be gettin' goin' on that one soon I hope!
I've took a look at your Grayling and she looks like she will turn out pretty nice! I you have any questions on anything Ive done that might help you on it feel feel to drop me a line.