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Kilo III

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Kilo III

Postby raalst » Wed Apr 15, 2009 5:46 pm

well, at least it is MY third version of the trumpeter Kilo (1/144)

trimming and alpha trials are currently ongoing.

below is a link to a "striptease" of the boat since I'm too lazy even to crosspost.

improvements in this boat over the previous version :
- faster divetimes (no need for a calender any more ;-) )
- larger ballast tank (plm 50 ml) means better surface waterline
- hopefully better turning because the whole rudder assembly turns, not just the rudder
itself.
- better accessability

and time permitting : lighting. it's all there but the current battery container will not
fit where I planned it, so a rethink is in order.

http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/duikboten/80893-de-kilo-er-weer-versie-iii.html#post1218123
Regards,

Ronald van Aalst

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Postby tsenecal » Wed Apr 15, 2009 10:06 pm

run the lighting off the receiver.

if you are using LEDs, you can simply connect a 2 wire servo connector (black and red, cut the white) to the receiver, and draw your power through the receiver like a servo would, use resistors to drop the 4.8 volts down to whatever your LEDs need.
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Postby raalst » Thu Apr 16, 2009 12:39 am

thanks ! good idea. however, the external battery seemed to require 4 cells before the leds gave any light. so, some experimentation is needed.

I have 3 leds in series, and each led requires a minimum voltage difference. if the sum of those values is larger than what the battery provides, no light (i.e. not even without resistor).

I'm also a bit scared to drill holes in my nice little endcaps..
Regards,

Ronald van Aalst

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Postby tsenecal » Thu Apr 16, 2009 1:03 am

rather than wiring LEDs in series, I have individual resistors on each LED. This allows me to give each LED exactly the voltage AND amperage it needs. If i don't do this, I will end up with red LEDs that are much brighter than the green or white.

If I need to pass electricity through an endcap, i screw brass bolts through the endcap, and secure the wiring to the bolt using a brass nut.

this photo is a decent example of what i mean about the endcap:

http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/attac ... 133-54.jpg
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Postby junglelord » Thu Apr 16, 2009 7:58 am

The link does not work for me...got another link with a pic?
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Postby wingtip » Thu Apr 16, 2009 10:11 am

the link works if yo copy and paste it directly into your browser.
"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your ductape!"

Dave "wingtip" Townsend
SubCommittee #2777
Martinsville Indiana
davet@insightbb.com
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Postby raalst » Wed May 06, 2009 3:46 pm

the lights work now. a float inside the tower breaks contact when it submerges.
you can faintly see the left and right navlight and the light in the front of the tower burning.

additionally I decided to fix the fit of the upper and lower hull. I took the sonar nose from
my previuos version and glued it onto the lowe half of the hull.
This and a bit of corrective sanding gave a much improved fit.


Image
Regards,

Ronald van Aalst

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Postby raalst » Sun Jun 07, 2009 4:30 pm

I'm currently detailing the Kilo.

I have sanded off the rails along the edges of the deck, so I can create a more curved upper deck.
a separate brass wire will later be re-attached.

Also the tower is a bit more like the photo's.
- the lamp holders are no longer square
- the grating on the side ( it is a cardboard HO scale road drain cover )
- the exhaust on the back of the tower
- an extra hatch and knob I saw on a photo
- some general putty to hide the original seams of the kit

I started painting the interior stuff and shades black as well.
Next weekend I will be running the Kilo, I would be nice to have a
provisional coat of paint by then, so "she is ready for her closeup".

Image
Regards,

Ronald van Aalst

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