The next mod I have done was to make the internal ribs assembly be able to be removed from the hull.
Since the hull is a tubular type and in order to ballance the sub at any stage of construction and beyond this mod was necessary,not only that but to prevent the need to make 2 large opennings in the bottom of the hull for ballanceing as shown in the booklet ,was not to my liking and I had to find a way to acomplish the same thing..
The instructions show the ribs and bayonet rings glued in place making it impossible to remove the inner "core" section just the casing.
If one needs to add foam or lead to say the bow area than with the core removed it is possible ,however only if the above lead and foam is glued to the core and NOT to the hull.
The 4 inch white tube is the sleeve for the casing on which the ballancing items are stratigicly placed ,as we all know that in subs ballance is everything and is as important as watertightness, at least to me.
Six glued in place stainless 4/40 size female spacers first screwed to the rib with button head allen screws ,just the right size to clear the 2 bulkheads when the ring is assembled then glued in to make the system work.
Before that happened I marked the locations to be dremeled out so that the ribs will pass over each stand off.If not done in this sequence the ribbs will never come out!
Its easy to do with goop which works perfectly with this material and sub in general ,it is my favorite glue in all my subs,it gives without cracking and peels cleanly,you just cant sand it.
The other mod is for the hydraulic masts and operational dive planes.
This was a challange in that the hole casing comes out the stern and with a twist,so I had to think of a way to make it disconect in a totaly blind and inacsessable area.
By useing magnets the sail planes will be connected via push rod from the stern dive plane rod,the rod runs inbetween the outer and inner sleeve and casing,there is a gap of about a 1/4 inch that a rod has plenty of space to run in.
You wonder well how does the casing stay inplace if there is a large gap in cercumfrence?
Well ther are those marveluse locking lugs and hooks they make the difference in the circumfrence and the fit is perfect! Just a bit of belt sanding on the shorter sections are needed,for some reason that mold was a bit larger by a few mms.
Also very important is the stern plains stearring horn mod,I went with ball links and stainless allen head screws all 4/40 and lock nuts and 1/8 stearing horns,then made and atached the larger stainless 3/32 shafting and bent them in place so that the X tail control is attained,this is only one side and the horns are done with the pivots moving in the same direction,if not 4 servos would have to be used and thats overkill.
The Robbe kit was that way and I corrected it right away.
Then there is the stern access door ,that part is good and should be done as its impossible to gain acsses to the control rods and prop shaft ,should the aft section of the casing be removed.I added the 2 side stops to further bulster the 2 tiny screws,in the field this area could see stress.
The diagram shows the cut in the sleeve that will allow the casing to be removed when the masts and sail plains mechanism is installed.
Dave Amur Sub Yard
This diagram is another possible way to move the sailplains and shows the hydraulic masts.
The inner Core with sleeve ,later foam and lead will be added.