Hello again everyone,
Still going on the moulds, and yes, I am getting sick of moulds! Uggg! This time around it’s the hull, the biggest, baddest, meanest mould of them all.
First thing is to get the hull plug entrenched in a parting system that splits the plug in half and gives me some fiberglass flanges, of which will give me the capability to do vacuum bagging if I so choose. The plug is kept in place with modeling clay in the bottom. Once happy with the positioning of the plug I fill in around the sides of the plug with modeling clay and level out using an Exacto razor chisel
Once the plug is polished with about six coats of wax I then proceed on final details, like removing my sunken detail tape, drilling slight countersinks for my MBTs so I can attach my PE flush. I also added the safety track on the back of the boat using a piece of evergreen styrene strip by masking off all around the area that is to be adhered and then I scour the surface so that the glue will have something to grab too. Same with the mbt and capstan tops.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u319 ... 011560.jpg
All that detailing also has to be dug out from the wax and polish build up that has gathered in it before applying the PVA.
Now that the PVA has been sprayed on (multiple light coats between drying instead of a few heavy coats) I paint on un-filled, un-thickened pigmented epoxy, making sure all the detailing has been covered. This epoxy is let cure to a tacky state and then a heavier coat is applied. At the same time heavily thickened epoxy is applied where the hull and parting board meet to a give a nice rounded surface for the glass to gradually flow in form to, as opposed to fiberglass’s worse enemy; 90 degree corners. Once cured to tacky I apply light weight veiling cloth and then a layer of 10 ounce glass cloth and apply a wet coat of epoxy. Here was a good chance for me to try and knock down some of my scrap glass cloth bag by using smaller pieces instead of large single pieces.
When tacky, I applied a layer of woven-roven and then wetted out again, waited until tacky and then applied a final layer of woven-roven wetted out and added a final layer of peel ply. In this case it’s Dacron sail cloth. It wicks all that excess resin within itself, the epoxy cures, you pull off the cloth and it leaves behind a uniform bondable surface that in theory should prevent having to grind epoxy later if you want to adhere something to it.
What my pictures don’t show if the bottom hull half mould that I screwed up, badly. I think somebody must have slipped some crack into my food around the time when I was working on this part. I didn’t remove the bubbles properly in the epoxy surface coat leaving lots of pinholes. I also left some nasty cut marks in the surface of the mould itself when I earlier used my razor blade to get some air bubbles out of my lamination, apparently the epoxy coat wasn’t cured hard and the blade went right down damaging the surface of the plug too. Boy that was sure funny when I pulled the mould and saw that, in fact, I still haven’t stopped laughing…in a crazed, insane, madman kind of way. The lesson learned here is don’t rush and concentrate on what you’re doing. In this case I have wasted a tone of time, material and money in having to refinish the plug and laminate this part properly. It’s not good for the morale either. I haven’t pulled the top part from the mould yet because the new bottom half is still curing…here’s hoping I wasn’t on crack when I did that side! UGGG!
Live and learn, because we all know I’ve done a bit of that on this project