The bow drive planes are pretty much a straight forward affair. Even for someone who has never done this before. Bob gives you the location of the plane's control rod and from there it is a measure, mark, re-measure, measure again and drill.
I decided to run a 1/4-28 die nut on the post. This allows them plane to be captured with two 1/4" stainless washers and nyloc nuts inside the hull.
Next I moved to the rear of the boat. The instructions, supplied with the kit, gives a full scale template to locate the hydro-plane veins.
This template made the task at hand easier but I found a bit of movement was required to get the center of the pivot on the planes aligned with the hull plane that is there. The area for the saddle to fit was removed with a small hand saw. I then ground down the inside of the hull and inserted a machined piece of aluminum for the saddle to sit on. This aluminum piece was later drilled and tapped to accept a countersunk 44-40 bolt.
Initally I had a hard time with the skeg braceing.
I am realizing I do not know all the correct nautical terms for these parts so please feel free to correct me.
I started using a small butane torch but later realized I was overheating the skeg and not getting the required results.
I finally tried using a 2500 watt soldering gun and as they would say, The rest is history.
Since I wanted everything able to be unbolted for painting later, and given the great detail that Bob has provided on this hull, I thought it would be best to attach the front leg of the skeg to a plate on the hull. This plane is attached to a piece of brass tubing tapped to 44-40 and secured from inside the hull. Rivet detail was added using 30 min epoxy and a straight pin ground to a flat end.
On the other end two pieces of brass was oiled and fit over the end of the rudders and then soldered to the skeg's rear legs. I was pretty pleased with the results.
The stuffing boxes (why are these called stuffing boxes? are they to be stuffed with grease or something?) were slipped over the propeller shafts and enought material removed from the hull so they would be in no bind. They were wrapped with making tape that was coated car wax. The wax serves as a release agent so the stuffing boxes can be removed. I will build a fiberglass cover over these soon.
Ok, that's it for now. Here is the rear. I still have to put the control arms inside the hull but that will be a bit later as well.