Well time to update the progress on the Kilo so far. I'm nearly ready to get this boat in the water and go have some fun. The only thing that is holding me back right now is the nice big gaps between the two hull halves. Ive been experimenting with a few techniques but, I haven't found my nitch for this one. My biggest problem is a nice size gap in the nose of the boat... yuck. With that said lets get down to the building.
I received some more photos showing the sail of this boat up a little closer. After a little comparison with the sail of my trumpter boat I noted a few things missing that I wanted to add to my model. For one the notch that the whip antenna folds down into was not on the sail. I also noted that there was a door/hatch on the aft end of the sail. There were also a few misc holes all over the boat that were not on my boat.
Here is a shot of my best reference for the top of the sail.
The first thing I set out to do was to add all of the misc holes that were all over the top of this boat. To do this I took out my 1/32" drill bit from my dremel drill set and chucked it up in my drill. I then took a pencil and mapped out all the holes I wanted to add while referencing it against a large print out of the photo shown above. After I was happy with where the holes laid out I drilled all the holes out. An easy task so far.
My next order of business was to create the missing hatch on the aft end of the sail. Now I have no idea how big it really is and a guess I could get all scientific and do a ratio by measuring the sail and so on but, I'm not that guy. I just eyeballed it. Using a ruler and pencil a made a few lay outs comparing to the photo and making corrections. When I was happy with my box, I used the same ruler as a guide and scribed the box in using my very sharp metallic point.
Finally I wanted to add the groove for the whip antenna. This was again a very simple task. Using my calibrated eyes I expertly laid a line in pencil where I wanted the groove to be. The I took out my dental scribe to make the groove with my ruler as a guide. I used the dental scribe for this one because it would remove more material then my regular scribe would. I needed this grove to be deep so that it would resemble the real thing.
After all this was done I shot the sail with a quick coat of flat black to give me an idea of how it would look.
Not bad I would say and I think the 20 or less minutes it took to add these small details was worth it. The add something to the bland top of this sail.
OK now back to the top of this boat. It is time to attack the safety rails, bollard holes, and hatches.
To bollard or not to bollard? For me there was no question.... they had to go. I like my boats to resemble a boat that is ready to dive and having bollards stick up while diving would more than likely never happen. So, why wont I say that it will never happen? Well, it may be personal bias but Russian equipment made very poorly. I'm sure at one time or another the mechanism to lower these bollards at one point or another failed in its duties and was forced to remain out after diving. I can't prove it but, you all know its likely. OK, way of course now ehh. Anyway I simply made a small batch of Evercoat and filled all the stupid holes in that the kit provided for their bollards. I then took the bollards and sharply stuck them in the trash.
While the Evercoat was setting up I moved on to the hatches. I have lots of pictures of these bad boy and all of the ones I see show the kit to be incorrect in its representation.
Here have a look for yourself.
Notice that the deck does not have a recess around the hatch like the kit indicates. I am very curious what they were looking at when they made this model. I mean it is a Chinese model. the Chinese have Kilos of their own that they have purchased from Russia.
Look for yourself!
Nice huh? Well, I guess we will just have to fix what they didn't.
This is a fairly simple fix but, its can be a pain in the arse ! Phase one start by gluing the provided hatch into place. Phase two mix Evercoat. Phase three apply Evercoat to the gap. Phase four watch Evercoat dry. Of course it only takes about 5 minutes for the stuff to dry but why sit around when there is work to be done. Lets move on to the hand rails.
The hand rails are a bit over sized on the boat and not mention incorrect again. The safety rails on this boat do not extend all the way down to the end of the deck. Have a look.
You have to be paying attention but you can see it in the top corner. In fact there is a good amount of nice detail in this photo that one could add to the boat. Leave it to personal preference ehh.
As for right now we are only concerned with the safety rail. First thing to do was to just remove the old hand rail. I is not only to long but, it is also to big. To get rid of it I took out my exacto chisel and shaved it off.
Next it was time to ensure the old rail was all gone by sanding it down. I is also a good time to sand everything down and make the corrections smooth. After a little wet sanding I let the top dry and shot it with some primer to look for holes in the filling. I then applied squadron putty to fill the dimples and holes. I also inspected for left over railing and removed that as well. After the putty dried I wet sanded again and this was what I ended up with.
The next thing I wanted to do was replace the railing with an new better one. There are two ways you can do this that I can think of. There is the cost effective way and there is the lazy way. I wonder which one I chose. Yeah the lazy way. I took myself to the local hobby store and bought the smallest rod styrene they had and brought it home to use as my rail. The other way is to take the plastic struts from the kit and using a flame pull them into thin strips. I suck at it. Good luck to you.
Now to attach the the rails I first held down the end of the rail on the forward end of the boat where I wanted it. The using a small brush with some plastiweld I adhered about a 1 inch section to the boat.
This helped me to hold the rail in place while I used tape to place the rest of the rail where it needed to be . I also ensured that the safety rail ended right before the aft hatch. After that I applied plastiweld to the rest of the railing and let it dry. Remember that only a little bit of plastiweld is needed. Using to much will melt the plastic and make wrinkles. It is a real pain to fix. I hate doing it. So should you.
Here is a look at the after effect. Sorry the photo is a little fuzzy but, It is to late for me to take another as I was on a roll at the time.