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Hydrualic Doors and Masts for the Typhoon!

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Hydrualic Doors and Masts for the Typhoon!

Postby DEEPDIVER » Thu Apr 26, 2007 12:04 pm

:D Hello to all fellow Captains.
I have been experimenting and building several systems into my Typhoon an Engel Masterseries and what a hull!
Well what I have found out that by combining regular seringes modified to work as hydraulic rams ,working with the Tecknics Lego robotics components that are very cheap,very well made and can be CA d together or screwed together and will never rust and needs no lubrication and best of all runs great in water since they are made from high impact plastic.
They also make neumatic rams and valves but I prefer hydraulics for the folowwing reasons.
1 If air leaks from the system it will cause the sub to go out of trim.
2 Air is compressable and causses the components to jerk at activation.
3 Hydraulics do not have the above side effects and if there is a leak it just goes into the free flood areas.All parts are outside of the pressure hull except the pump and micro switches.If I had a video of the operation you would be impressed with how smoth and realisticly the masts and doors oprate.
Also there are no 3 way valves just the rotary valve I mentioned in the new products post.It is the selector valve by which I operate to select which system beit doors or mast or what ever I chose to operate,then I turn on the pump ,a windchield washer gear pump,in the apropreate direction and up or open or close they go individualy,verry cool.
If you are interested in seeing more about the components e mail me at subcreator1@aol.com or vsit the bricklink.com then tecknickis parts under parts catalog.
The apllications are endless with these parts and if they break or wear out no big deal there all available for pennies!
This is realy interesting and could change the way it used to be done!
Imagine a RC sub with no mechanical bulkhead passthrughs,or bellows or seals that wearout or fail at the wrong time.
Well with this system only tubes will come out and activate the rams that move the dive planes or ruuder ect.(especialy a must for those hard to reach or in accessable ares just like the real subs there are no bellows,before I used a watertight servo ,it works great also but can fail )and not to mention the masts doors and I forgot motor pods that retract! Ya and operate thats also a feature on the Typhoon and is on mine see pics.
I treid to get the best shots but my camara is not so great.

Enjoy I still have not dicieded to name myself in relation to Technicks Legos



Dave PS The Scale Ships Oscar II is in route,cant wait to see her !!
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DEEPDIVER
 

More picstures of Typhoon systems

Postby DEEPDIVER » Thu Apr 26, 2007 12:46 pm

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The bottom veiw of the pod without the pod motor installed
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The pic with the pump head is for cooling the main drive motors and runs in the free flood area tecknicks came through for me on the adater for the shaft just happened to fit a double D 1.8 mm shaft! The rest show the mast rams and platform that the masts atache to.
The above pics show the retracting and rotating motor pod ,it will be connected to the rudder shaft and moves with the rudder,and only retracts when the rudder is amid ships.2 microswitches operating at the far ends of the rudder movement operate the motor in forward or reverse.To retract the pod or deploy a waterproof servo conected via driveshafts and gearboxes operate the 2 pods one aft the other at the bow in unisen the forward one dose not rotate but dose thrust when the diveplanes go to there extream positions like the rudder.I will post the completed pod before I install it.The motor is a secret so far :D
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DEEPDIVER
 

Pressure hull ect for Typhoon

Postby DEEPDIVER » Thu Apr 26, 2007 1:21 pm

Here are some pics of the tecknics components installed around the box a Pelican box works great and cheap!
The teck components you see operate off the main drive shafts to turn a pump head thats shown above 2 each on seperate circuits using water and anteefreez the center shaft operates the retracting pod via the watertight servo.
The U jouints are great they are strong and can take alot of torque for a small u jount ,the shafts are simply cut with a saw or dykes to fit then assembled with the bearing blocks.You wonder how can it not burnup from friction ,well its in water!
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DEEPDIVER
 

Postby cstranc » Mon Apr 30, 2007 6:51 pm

DeepDiver
This is great. I will need to get a couple of periscopes running and this sounds like a great approach.

I really like you points on the difference between using air or water for the cylinders. It sounds really obvious when you say it.

How do you fill the system with water? Do you need to purge all the air bubbles out?

Thanks for posting all the pictures. I shall be looking at them with great interest.

Chris
It's a great day for R/C sub building.
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Postby AdriaticSea » Sat May 05, 2007 7:25 am

Hi DeepDiver,

wow, this is a dream coming true for me...since childhood (when I was used to build lego techinc models that made use of pneumatic components) I had always dreamed of converting this already wonderful system to work as an hydraulic circuit. Now that I build RC submarines this is even more interesting and imporant.
I've got a bunch of quiestion, but here are the most important ones:

1. the standard 3 way lego valve releases air in the atmosphere during the push-pull movement...could this be a problem with hydraulics? (imagine the scene with high pressure oil going everywere....)
2.You mentioned the use of hydraulic rams as actuators for the rudders and diveplanes (at least I guess this would be an use)....but how can you get proportional control of a hydraulic ram? there would be the need for a electronic feed back system....

Thanks in advance deepdiver and keep us informed pf the propgress!!
BEST REGARDS MAURO
-Rapidi ed Invisibili-
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More in depth details about my hydraulic sysytem

Postby DEEPDIVER » Sun May 13, 2007 8:28 am

Yes to the first question ,the air must be bleed out either by a syringe or the pump if not the pump will cavitate and little or no actuation.
Also a aircrafts model fuel tank works great for the reservoir and eliminates any bubbles,2 lines in the tank one is the supply the other the fill,very simple.
The fluid is water and silicon lubricant but I might use also vegetable oil ,better if there is a spil.Only a few drops is needed to lube the pump and rams but even runs very smooth without lube!

The 3 way valves are only good for pneumatics since a push pull effect is needed since you are using pressurized air that only flow in one direction.
With my system unly the pump is reversed once you have done the first stroke.
The pump only comes on when the desired circuit is selected lets say masts ,move the pump direction knob on the radio to the extend or up position and then move the selector valve knob to the masts and the pump is activated automatically by the micro switch you see on the selector valve shaft tangs these tangs are inline with the hydraulic circuits within the valve,a 6 position valve or ports works great with the normal rotation of a servo but only 3 circuits can be accessed,but with a 360 degree servo all circuits can be used,more actuations.
The pump I like is a Volvo, Porsche Mercedes wind shield washer pump ,these have brass gears and the head can be removed to be driven by another motor if needed like for cooling the main drive motors via a sealed 2 coil system that I have used for years,for 20.00 bucks they can be had on ebay new ,;ook for years from 1985 to 96.It has 2 hose fittings and they face toward the pump motor.I will post a pic also it has a niceL mounting bracket.
As for the hydraulic ser faces, the reversing pump servo circuit would be incorporated to activate the pump forward or reverse whenever the selector valve is operated, similar to the above system.
The operator is the feedback system when the boat responds you adjust the planes ect,and need not be a fly by wire system.

When the rams reach there pree installed travel stops , just screws in the desired position in the seryinge above the rubber seal that way no damage to the mechanism is transmitted, the pump will build pressure but its not enough to damage or burst the lines ,you will see the masts at there top position then just rotate the selector valve knob or the pump direction knob to the neutral position,these channels can be sliders or knobs as long as they are not on off.

Well I have just finished the forward diving planes retract system and it works great! And you can vary the speed of actuation by using a inline needle valve once adjusted to your speed its done,that is something very difficult to achieve with pneumatics since air compresses and becomes jerky. Also a failsafe actuator can be installed by using pressure from the trim tanks ,no electricity a normaly open solenoid valve opens and releases the presurized water to the ram,and can be actuted manualy via the radio like a manual bypass.just reserve pressure to actuate a wight release.Tecknicks make it happen.And this will in my view bring a hole new realm of special effects ect . to make our subs even more realistic!

Thank you for your interest and keep the QA's coming


Best regards Dave





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DEEPDIVER
 

Postby Pirate » Mon May 14, 2007 11:29 am

Dave,

Do you see any reason why a simple connecting rod driven by a servo couldn't actuate a syringe to do the same things?

Pete
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I tried that

Postby DEEPDIVER » Wed May 16, 2007 6:48 pm

The reason I did not adopt it is that the number of servos to actuate all the seperate cicuits would be to complex and use up the radios chanels.
With my system up to six cicuits can be indipendantly operated from 2 channels, and more if duplicated.

Also a very strong servo would have to be imlpoyed to move just one syringe ,while up to 4 can be easily operated with a small pump that I use,and variable speed operation is posible.

Also in large subs the distances from actuator to control box is great and strong hydraulics will do the job from a distance.

Just a few things I have experimented with over a long time and have found to be efective ,cheap and very realistic .

Great question though keep it coming! and try this system on your bench its so cool!

Best regards Dave
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Postby aquadeep » Wed Aug 29, 2007 8:33 am

Please chech out my other posts of other types of hydrualic systems on this forum and RC Modeler forum.

Another very small great pump 20.00$ Hobby Lobby fuel transfer.Works great.
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