I'm WAY overdue to update this thread. Thought I'd toss a few pix up here while I was thinking about it.
First, for those of you just joining us, I'm slowly tackling a Custom Replicas 1/32-scale Disney Nautilus for r/c. Same kit that Paul Crozier's building, and also the same one "Bob the Builder" Martin just completed. (Bob built his up as a static however, because he'd already scratchbuilt his own successful r/c version earlier.) For great photos and mini-videos of what this kit is SUPPOSED to look like when finished, check out Bob's latest Nautilus build thread in the TV/Movie Subs section of the forums. Wonderful work, Bob, as usual!
Okay. When last we left our intrepid adventurer, he (yours truly) was ensconced in building up rivets with thinned JB Weld. The whys and wherefores of this process are explained in great depth above -- no need to cover that real estate again. Just know that this effort is now as complete as it's gonna be. Here's an example of "buildups" around a salon window:
And here's a view of some recent rivet re-do's on the after section:
As mentioned (far) above, for consistency, all separate hull parts required new built-up rivets too. Here's a comparison between an old wheelhouse (foreground; eventually to be used as a paint test bed) and a new version with rivet buildups:
Smaller parts required this treatment too. Here's the skiff: its rivets were barely visible before. Now they're striking, just like on the 1:1 version. These rivets were very small and difficult to render uniformly by hand, but required the thinned Weld method because those pre-manufactured railroad rivets seen in other shots and mentioned earlier in this thread were just too large for this purpose. My syringed Weld results were decidedly mixed, as the closeup shows, but, I believe, still better than how the skiff came to me. (Note: this skiff was purchased separately from a talented vendor on the DisneySub website; a less detailed skiff is included in the kit from CR.)
I did use the manufactured rivets to replace the indistinct ones surrounding the ventral divers' hatch, however. They are actually too big in scale for this use as well, but the area was too tight to employ the thinned JB Weld versions: the arc of the hatch seat simply did not permit the drops to keep from running into one another, and I didn't want to take the days required to cure a couple at a time then "rotate." Actually, I think these rivets look pretty good even if they ARE too big. Besides, they'll be camouflaged somewhat by paint and weathering later.
With rivet repair out of the way, the next job became filling the channels behind the various dive plane positions along the side keels. Paul was the one who informed me of this necessity. The static version side keel parts cover up these spots along the hull, but building an r/c configuration leaves them unsatisfactorily exposed, requiring filling if they're not going to be unsightly. Paul chose Evercoat "Metal Glaze" as his filler for this task. I have that too, and will likely use it for the major seam work necessary on my Seaview (obviously another story). But for this application, I preferred Milliput epoxy putty from Micro-Mark, since I'd had decent luck with that already. You just roll it into skinny little Play-Doh-like snakes and press them into the depressions, forming it into the correct shape by force. The putty smooths along its top with water and finger pressure. Great stuff! Here are dive plane channels masked for filling:
And here are some filled channels, curing, waiting to be sanded smooth (though a little Nitro-Stan body filler will likely be required first).
My badge of honor for today's work: a quick self-portrait of the splatters and glob of Milliput putty on my iron-on transfer "20k"/Nautilus T-workshirt. (Sorry so blurry.)
More to come!
Sure writing is easy: just sit staring at a blank page until the drops of blood start forming on your forehead.