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Fix to Engel Akula retract machanism - Front dive planes wiring

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Postby libor » Wed Mar 15, 2006 5:39 am

If you have problems with Engel front dive planes retract mechanism kit, here is how I made it work.

I installed into my Akula kit the retract mechanism for front dive planes (Engel item-No. 1593-2) and oh-no, when I tested the fully installed system, I realized that it is not working as it should.

Only the servo operating angle of front dive planes was working, and what worse - it was working even when mechanism was retracted (this is supposed to be switched-off when dive planes are retracted and should work only when the dive planes are extracted). Second servo, the one that extract the diving planes, was not working at all.

My wife is not very excited of RC modeling, but patience - is what my wife envy watching me working on my sub-model. So this time it took me 3 long after-work nights finding the problem. I was not able to make mentioned mechanism to work until I realized, that, and I stress: according to the wiring diagram, I soldered the wire from switch S2 (pos.1) to “D” contention point situated between “+” and “-“ connection point on a Relais-Block (see attached diagram). After one hundred and second try I looked closely to the chip again and by lucky guess I decided to make it different and I soldered lead from S2 switch just next to the “A,B,C” leads and minus lead to the former position of D (so I replaced their actual positions). Eureka!

Now, although I am not completely ready with re-installation of whole system (want to deal with periscopes retract mechanism before gluing middle deck), it is working as described in building instructions guide although, I exchanged that positions of "D" and “-“ wires. Only other thing I had to do was to exchange the wires to modified servo motor, since servo motor was turning exactly opposite as was supposed to (this second exchange of wires solved this problem easy).

Another critical point is not to forget to connect position 4 on S1 switch with position 4 on S2 switch – this is not very good visible on Engel building diagram.

I have contacted Engel service with this, as soon as I will obtain any response, I will place it here too.

Hope this will help you too.

Libor

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Postby libor » Fri Mar 24, 2006 5:06 am

Hi, still no response from Engel service. Just to show more:

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Note those modified D,A,B,C soldering points. I am not electrician but this placement of soldering points (+ next to - and D next to A,B,C) apparently seems more logical then the original configuration according to the plan (above, D next to + and - next to A,B,C). And what is really relevant, now it works ;-)

While testing:
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Postby libor » Fri Mar 31, 2006 12:36 pm

Today I received e-mail from Mr. Engel explaining the problem; they attached old/incorrect instructions to my package of front dive planes. With apologize for inconvenience I obtained new instruction with corrected soldering points too. In case you posses the old/incorrect instructions, do not loose your nerves and see for your self how it is meant to be soldered, (basically as I described above):
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Postby TMSmalley » Fri Mar 31, 2006 2:07 pm

I congratulate you for your (and your wife's) patience!

We would like to see more photos of your project as you build it!
Tim Smalley
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Postby magpie » Tue May 09, 2006 5:08 am

I'll second that Tim!!
A very interesting build indeed!!!
I hope you have a rechargeable drill spanner to do those nuts up!! There are lots.
Well done so far and like Tim wants, "more pics please!!!
Jason :D
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In Australia.
They roll too.
http://magpieyachts.com
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Postby libor » Wed May 10, 2006 3:29 am

Jason, there are 14 nuts to tighten the lid. I use "manual" chrome vanadium key no. 7 and so far I did not get bored ;-)

Few pictures here:

Inside:
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Outside:
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OK, and now, one interesting cut I had to make to move the servo arm little bit front in order to get more space for pistontank:
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Yes, it HURT to cut finished middle deck, but I did my job, and now it works flawlessly.
Libor




Edited By libor on 1147249139
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