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how do YOU make a waterproof on/off switch

Post your favorite modeling 'tips' and 'tricks'

Postby raalst » Wed Mar 08, 2006 6:38 am

Hi all,

any opinions on how to make an effective on-off switch ?

I would like to hear from you if you made your on-off
switch yourself.

Personally, I would like the switch to kill ALL electronics,
not just the receiver. hence I would need a switch that
can switch a lot of amps.

(And I know about the ready-made reed-relay/magnet
solution, it only kills the receiver. And the relays used in
that can stand a max of 2 to 5 amps, not enough.)

curiously yours,
Regards,

Ronald van Aalst

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Postby Sub culture » Wed Mar 08, 2006 7:45 am

Well you could use a higher current relay, or perhaps use a transisterised design utilising a high current MOSFET.

Andy
'Why are you staring at an empty pond?'

Want to dive your boat in crystal clear water? Then you had better Dive-in- http://www.diveintomodelsubmarines.co.uk
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Postby Davy » Wed Mar 08, 2006 7:46 am

I use a lead acid battery outside the WTC - this supplies everything. So removing a spade terminal at the battery is my switch. Not very elegant but effective

David :)
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Postby tabledancer » Wed Mar 08, 2006 12:30 pm

I use a proximity switch with a small magnet to control my system which uses a max of 7.2 volts.
TD :cool:
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Postby Atomic Subs » Wed Mar 08, 2006 1:51 pm

This is how I did it with my D&E 3.0...Just a switch with a waterproof boot. Cuts the power from the battery.

Image

Nothing fancy- Lyle




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Postby JWLaRue » Wed Mar 08, 2006 3:03 pm

Lyle,

...it looks like your WTC is happy to see you! :p

Here's another way to make the switch. I placed a simple slider switch in a one inch diameter acrylic tube, made two end caps, and then used a BHS seal for the actuating shaft. The shaft is connected to the capstan on the deck of the Type VII. Pull it up and power is turned off, push it down and it's on.

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Postby Atomic Subs » Wed Mar 08, 2006 4:42 pm

Jeff,

Thats cool!

Lyle
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Postby TMSmalley » Wed Mar 08, 2006 5:50 pm

Lyle -
It looks like you use a spring loaded closure of some sort at the bow to keep top and bottom halves together. Can you tell us about that?

Tim
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Postby Bigdave » Thu Mar 09, 2006 8:51 am

I am doing the S/W thing with my new XV11b battery tube WTC. It has a waterproof S/W cover. It mounts in the bottom of the sub, and I can access the S/W from one of the vent holes. BD.Image



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Postby tabledancer » Thu Mar 09, 2006 1:57 pm

Jeff'
I still say that you are a "subvert" but I like your ideas.After we discussed your switch idea last year I tried to use it in my Type VIIC conversion,but not enough room.It will be used on my next boat which will be bigger. :;):
TD
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Postby cyclops2 » Thu Mar 09, 2006 6:29 pm

Raalst.
What is the maxumum running current ?
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Postby raalst » Thu Mar 09, 2006 6:34 pm

I design for 5 amps, but I expect it to be about 2 amps peak.

power is from 6 AA rechargeable batteries, soldered
together.
Regards,

Ronald van Aalst

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Postby Crazy Ivan » Thu Mar 09, 2006 7:16 pm

I use a miniature toggle switch rated at 5 amps mounted inside the WTC. I connected a brass rod to the toggle to activate it and ran it out the end cap through a regular 1/8 in. pushrod seal to the outside.



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My "on/off" etc:

Postby Robse » Mon Jan 08, 2007 4:35 pm

Hi :-)
I came up with the following idea for my scratch build 1:81 Ohio, and thought that you guys might be interested in it. Finding a watertight switch that was not too big, nor heavy, proved difficult. I therefore choose a reed relay. It's a relay that's activated with a loose magnet, like a "key" without which the sub can not be turned on..


Image
This module goes under the hatch in the missile deck.
The left reed-relay is the "On / Off", the right reed-relay is the "Dive disable / enable" switch. The two loose magnets are the activation "keys" for these switches. (Which drives relays within WTC1)
The round stereo jack socket in the middle, is for the charge plug for the batteries.


Image
The four holes are for cable ties.
The black fork-shaped piece holds the magnet "key" in place when fitted, and missing is only some sort of snap lock, securing the "key" when inserted. Here one of the "keys" has been inserted for illustration.


Image
This is the lower side, showing the two blocks that holds the reed-relays in place. A slot was filed in the aluminum, allowing a secure fit of the reed-relays. (They are shaped just as the magnet "keys", but has got wires coming out of them.
The gold plated stereo jack (recharge plug), and the reed-relay wires, will be fitted with the wires from WTC1 shortly.


Image
This shows where the control panel goes under the hatch. (not shown, hinge is not done.) When the sub is surfaced, this will be above the waterline, thus allowing charging while in the water.


Image
This image shows the control panel temporary fitted within the hull, and with the hatch placed on top of the missile deck. The little white blick that sticks out from the left side of the hole, holds a small magnet. Another magnet is molded into the hatch, thus the hatch is pretty well "shut and locked" when closed. (If I turned the magnets the right way around, that is...)
Of cause the hinge will go under the missile deck, but this shows pretty well the general idea.

The brass arms was bend in one piece after sticking it through the hinge base. (White block) The ends of this brass rod ends in the two red blocks mounted on the lower side of the open hatch. The arc of the brass rods follows the circle that the moving hinge draws when operated, thus making them appear static.

Well.. hope I inspired someone. :-) Drop me a mail if you've got any questions, I'll be happy to share details.
Yours Sincerely, Robert Holsting, Denmark
1/81 SSBN Ohio Class scratch builder, more at www.robse.dk

"Never be afraid to try something new; remember that it was amateurs who build Noah's Ark, and professionals who build the Titanic"
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Postby raalst » Tue Jan 09, 2007 4:39 pm

nifty !

I am afraid I resorted to lo-tech.
In the end I used a normal switch, which can be reached
via the front WTC endcap.
I glued a coca cola bottle cap onto the endcap. so you can remove
the bottle cap and then (just barely) operate the switch.
Regards,

Ronald van Aalst

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