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Paint - question

Post your favorite modeling 'tips' and 'tricks'

Postby Wayne Frey » Thu May 12, 2005 7:53 am

I have been hearing Lacquer paint is going away mostly due to enviromental issues.
Ok, So what seems to be the ticket for a good primer and paint?
I started my Typhoon on a lacquer primer but am at a point where I can easily get it off and switch before I go farther.
I have been using Plasticote in a can so far, for the priming.
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Postby ThorDesign » Thu May 12, 2005 8:24 am

Wayne,

Yes, the environmentalist wackos have succeeded in convincing some people that the spray can of lacquer paint will be the end of all civilization. They are being slowly phased out of production. But fear not, the same wackos claim that there are even better paints that will not make the ice cap melt and flood the Miami Condo district. I have tried all of those so called "equivalents" but have not found one that I like nearly as well, but it warms my heart that I am not poisoning the brine shrimp in the arctic.

Nothing beats lacquer primer for fiberglass prepping, however I have found that it is a good combination to use lacquer primer, which is still going to be available for a few years, with a combination of the Tamiya super high quality water/alchohol based model paints. Yes, I said water based. I painted my latest boat with them and found them to be extremely durable, very scale in appearance, easy to apply, and best of all no solvent cleanup. Although they do recommend rubbing alchohol to clean your paint gun. The paints are waterproof when completely dry.

The only catch with these paints is that you need to wipe your subject down with an antigreaser like PPG900 wax and degreaser as they are VERY sensitive to oil from your hands and will fish-eye like crazy if you do not wipe it down first. Sand to 400 grit only. Any smoother than that and the paint will not adhere well.
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Postby Wayne Frey » Thu May 12, 2005 8:34 am

Thanks Matt.
I was looking for an answer like that. I will probalby follow that lead, but would like to see others post what works and what does not. I still have a pretty fair amount of the primer laying around.
Seems like a good question to post.
By the way, you going to be able to make it to the Regatta this summer?
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Postby ThorDesign » Thu May 12, 2005 11:26 am

Wayne,

I was hoping to be able to make the Regatta, but as it turns out I will not be there. I have too much work to do and have no time for it.
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Postby Novagator » Thu May 12, 2005 8:05 pm

ThorDesign wrote:Wayne,

I was hoping to be able to make the Regatta, but as it turns out I will not be there. I have too much work to do and have no time for it.

Matt,

I think you are just avoiding me. :p
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Postby ThorDesign » Fri May 13, 2005 10:49 am

John,

There are lot of people in this world I like to avoid. Fortunately or unfortunately for you, you are not one of them!
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Postby Gerwalk » Fri May 13, 2005 12:25 pm

Tamiya paints are really great. For cleaning my airbrush, brushes, and almost everything I use Windex. It removes Tamiya paint much better than alcohol (even if it is dry!)
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Postby U812 » Fri May 13, 2005 5:19 pm

ThorDesign wrote:Wayne,

Yes, the environmentalist wackos have succeeded in convincing some people that the spray can of lacquer paint will be the end of all civilization. They are being slowly phased out of production. But fear not, the same wackos claim that there are even better paints that will not make the ice cap melt and flood the Miami Condo district. I have tried all of those so called "equivalents" but have not found one that I like nearly as well, but it warms my heart that I am not poisoning the brine shrimp in the arctic.

Nothing beats lacquer primer for fiberglass prepping, however I have found that it is a good combination to use lacquer primer, which is still going to be available for a few years, with a combination of the Tamiya super high quality water/alchohol based model paints. Yes, I said water based. I painted my latest boat with them and found them to be extremely durable, very scale in appearance, easy to apply, and best of all no solvent cleanup. Although they do recommend rubbing alchohol to clean your paint gun. The paints are waterproof when completely dry.

The only catch with these paints is that you need to wipe your subject down with an antigreaser like PPG900 wax and degreaser as they are VERY sensitive to oil from your hands and will fish-eye like crazy if you do not wipe it down first. Sand to 400 grit only. Any smoother than that and the paint will not adhere well.

Matt,

your cracking me up here! Well I sure can see your not a tree hugger. Did anyone ever tell these wackos they grow back?

I live in CA. Nasty state really. Full of the like. I couldn't get a good primer here except krylon in a can. And that will be gone soon too out here.

So Merriman sent me some nice (out lawed in CA) Dupont Fill and sand 131S gray. We broke the law and the law lost!!LOL!!

Steve

"Save the submarine. Without them there would be no world."
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Postby Gerwalk » Fri May 13, 2005 6:32 pm

Steve:
You "are known to the state of California to produce cancer" by smuggling primers! :D
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Postby U812 » Fri May 13, 2005 6:35 pm

Gerwalk wrote:Steve:
You "are known to the state of California to produce cancer" by smuggling primers! :D

LOL!! Up the rebels!

Steve
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Postby Wayne Frey » Tue May 17, 2005 4:57 pm

So, lacquer primer can be used under most paints?
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Postby ThorDesign » Wed May 18, 2005 11:16 am

Steve,

Facts do not matter to these wackos. I am a conservationist, but I am not an environmentalist-the sky is falling-nut. Anyway, I love your comments.

Wayne,

The basic answer is yes, but it is alway wise to try a test on a scrap piece of material to make sure. Some paints do not anhere well to others and then there are a lot of chemical incompatibilities. Always test before ruining your prized model.

:laugh:
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Postby boatbuilder1 » Wed May 18, 2005 3:40 pm

there are a few new items available
prepall is a cleaner/degreaser
bulldog paint adheasive
both from walmart and yes you read that right paint adheasive
the bulldog is a great item it works fine I used it to do the robbe kits and thor/atomic hulls. the only word of advise I can give is read and follow the directions and apply thin misty coats I use 2 and sand with 600 between coats and let cure for 12 hours

chuck
charlie



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its all relative
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Postby Wayne Frey » Wed Jul 13, 2005 11:12 pm

Chuck Anderson, email me.
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Postby Kapleun Val » Tue Jul 19, 2005 11:39 pm

hi, im continuing on my revell viic conversion, as soon as i get a bit more cash im going to be after one of dave w's wtc, so until then ive been constructing the kit as best as i can, ive filed all the flood holes and filed the holes in the bulkheads big enough for the wtc, now that im this far im thinking about painting, and wondered if the revell/humbrol paints are suitable for use on my sub?
Building Viic by revell as R/C - Any and All help appreciated
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