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Recommendations on painting 31" NAUTILUS? - TV sub

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Postby modelnut » Mon Mar 14, 2005 3:15 pm

OK!

I just purchased the 31-inch Disney/Goff NAUTILUS from Replicas Limited and I need some pointers from you "old-salts" out there!

Over the years, I have seen some very nice pictures of various paint schemes posted here to the Forum. Most are rust/brown.
But a few were a nice iron-black with rust highlights. That is the one for me! :p

Could I trouble some of you to chime in with some advice and/or maybe repost those images?

BTW I had originally planned to convert this kit to R/C. But the detail is so nice that I have changed my mind.
I just cannot subject this beauty to mud and pond scum.
So I will settle for static.

Of course, you know, this means I will have to scratchbuild the Salon... :D

-Leelan
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Postby Carcharadon » Mon Mar 14, 2005 6:30 pm

modelnut wrote:I just cannot subject this beauty to mud and pond scum.
So I will settle for static.

-Leelan

Leelan, too funny.

If it will help your welcome to come to Savannah and run my sub in the pond scum.


Tom
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Postby Captain Nemo » Tue Mar 15, 2005 6:24 am

Leelan,

One thing about those resin models: make sure you wash the parts (hull especially) with water and mild detergent and let them dry well before you get into building the model. This is to get rid of any residual mold release that can keep your paint from sticking like it should. Use a large, very soft, artists paint brush, and gently scrub the detergent solution allover the model with it. (That kind of paint brush will get into the nooks and crannys, but won't scratch the resin.) Then rinse and dry thoroughly

What works for me is a base coat of red oxide primer, covered by successive distant mistings of sprayed on chocolate brown and flat black.

The red oxide is too red. It serves as a good base but you've really got to all but bury it. The chocolate brown and flat black bring it to where it looks like deeply rusted metal.

New rust and surface rust has an orange color to it; but once iron or steel has been sitting in the weather a while, it develops a rich brown with a granular quality of flat black and a hint of red oxide to it. I paint things this way, hold 'em next to an old sheet of steel in the shop, and can't tell the difference.

When misting the layers on, work in an area where there is no wind; keep the spray can about 24 to 30 inches away from the model and patiently "loft" the mist onto the surface until you build up that particulate, granular surface real rust has. Work your way around the model in even passes to keep the buildup uniform.

Go with a lot of black and you can get that "mostly black with rust high-lites" you mentioned. Might want to weather it a little lighter above the waterline, too.

On a different note: hope you liked the patches.

Pat
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Postby Bob the Builder » Tue Mar 15, 2005 12:14 pm

This is what I'm going to try on my own 31" model. If it works well, I'm going to repaint my 1/32 scale in the same manner:

First, apply a basecoat of flat black. Then apply a light misting of chocolate or rust brown in the same manner that Pat outlined above, keeping the spray can 24 to 30" away and letting it falll unevenly over the entire model.

Next, use an airbrush to randomly mist individual hull plates and sections with a stronger concentration of rust brown. Pay attention to which areas of the Nautilus might see more rust than others, such as under the scupper and ballast flood grates.

The next step (and the most important) is to use a brush and ground pastel chalk. Choose a dark color such as black or dark brown. apply the pastel over the rivet pattern with the brush. When you're done, it'll look really bad, with the entire rivet pattern standing out like a sore thumb. If you get too much in one place, just take a damp cloth and rub it out!

The last step brings everything into fruition. Take a soft T-shirt or rag and wipe the whole thing down gently. What will happen is that the shirt will blend the pastel with the hull and take it off of all of the thousands of rivet heads, showing the rivets to perfect effect. The areas just around the rivets will remain dark. Done properly, the effect is subtle, but powerful.

Be sure to lay down a coat of semi-gloss or matte clear laquer to hold everything in and prevent smudges and fingerprints!
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Postby Captain Nemo » Tue Mar 15, 2005 6:33 pm

I was going to post some more along these same lines but spaced it.

Bob, a flat black base will probably work fine. It all comes down to the misting; and really, no matter what we start with, enough mist and we can change the final product any way we like.

Leelan, I forgot to mention the rivet and panel detail. Yeah, gotta do that. I don't have an air brush, so I just mix a little black and brown (something a little darker than the color of the area I'm working in) and dry brush it on over the rivet and panel lines. The important point is make the brush really DRY so you have to work to get a color change; it blows chunks when I get too much paint in one place. Gotta clean it up and make it look like the rest.

I do some lines in an area (say, the wheelhouse) and then before the paint gets a chance to dry, I take a big, extremely soft bristle paint brush, and blast the whole surface to blend it in. Works OK for my purposes.

I've seen the black chalk / T-shirt method: comes out very nice with a lot of distinction at the rivet lines. i never tried it but I think the guy was talking about ordinary TEMPRA powdered poster paint, no? Easy to buy and cheap at any store that sells art supplies.

Whataya think about the raker teeth themselves" In the movie they look like they might be some kind of hardened alloy (which would figure if Nemo wanted to make tools that would hold an edge and slice through hulls), and they are not the same rust color as the hull. I did mine in a combination of black and gray paint, with a (very) little metalic silver and brown mixed in. Looks OK to me, but what do you guys think: make them kind of "steel" colored or leave the whole thing rust?

Pat
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Postby Captain Nemo » Tue Mar 15, 2005 6:41 pm

Oh, and one more thing. If you're building any of the 31-inchers based on the Brodeen design, and you decide to do the raker teeth an alternative color, remember: the four little "chisel-looking teeth" directly aft of the ramming spur aren't really teeth at all: they are extensions of the raker tooth mounting bars. You might want to make them the same color as the rest of the hull.
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Postby modelnut » Thu Mar 17, 2005 2:03 pm

Thanks, Guys!

You have any pictures to go with that?
Having some idea of the end result will go a long way!

Using images of the movie don't help. Few images of the boat match any other because of the differing circumstances and/or environments.

Pat! I will visit Vulcania! :laugh:
I almost forgot! There are bound to be images of your work there. Besides the 16-footer!

Wish I could remember who had that really nice almost iron-black NAUTILUS. It was posted to this part of the Forum sometime last year...

-Leelan
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Postby modelnut » Thu Mar 17, 2005 2:12 pm

Tom!

Thank you for the invitation! :D

Pond scum is only part of the reason for going static.

Resin without glass reinforcement is pretty fragile. So to keep from having to mold spare rakers etc. I will choose the better part of valor.

Others have said that this kit in particular is made from very heavy resin. I can only imagine how much foam would be needed to float her.

Finally, the scales have fallen from my eyes and I have seen how "out-of-whack" my 50th Anniversary Disney NAUTILUS is. And there are bubbles in the teeth of a few of the rakers. I looks great from accross the room. But not so good close up from some angles. :(

-Leelan
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Postby modelnut » Thu Mar 17, 2005 2:21 pm

I FOUND IT! I FOUND IT! I FOUND IT!

Iron-black NAUTILUS!

It's your NAUTILUS, Bob! That's the one I want!
How big is it? A kit or a scratchbuild? An R/C virgin wants to know!

-Leelan
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Postby Carcharadon » Thu Mar 17, 2005 3:33 pm

Leelan, I know what you mean. I made my subs specifically for lots of real-time abuse in the not so tropical waters of infamous Lake Mayor (complete with alligators). I knew there would be, transportation mishaps, as well as navigation mishaps, and even the possibility of a large predator. Everything was made extra thick and strong. But these are some of the concessions. If I had an RC like Bob's I wouldn't put it in the water, well maybe a pool. I'm content with the Disney model I have for display. This way I have my static and RC.

So anytime you'd care to challenge Lake Mayor let me know.

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Postby Bob the Builder » Thu Mar 17, 2005 7:20 pm

modelnut wrote:I FOUND IT! I FOUND IT! I FOUND IT!

Iron-black NAUTILUS!

It's your NAUTILUS, Bob! That's the one I want!
How big is it? A kit or a scratchbuild? An R/C virgin wants to know!

-Leelan

Leelan,


My Nautilus is 100% scratchbuilt, based on Tor Jensen's Blueprints and templates. It's 1/32 scale, or 66-1/2" long from ram tip to tail.

The paint was achieved in the following manner:

1.) base coat of flat black over the entire model
2.) two to three coats of diluted rust brown paint "washed" over the entire model.
3.) When the washes are still wet, take a thin brush with rust brown on it and trace the panel lines. The wet surface dilutes the mixture and spreads it just like rust might. Every once in a while, slop a bunch more diluted rust solution over your panel lines and let it carry the paint downwards like weathered rust.
4.) Once you're all done, seal it up well with a coat of semi-gloss lacquer.

I'm planning on adding a bit more weathering with some reddish and orangish streaking. Just a little, but enough to add a bit more interest.


Bob
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Postby modelnut » Fri Mar 18, 2005 1:18 pm

COOOOL... :cool:

I will have to try something like that.
But it will be a while. I need to plan how to build the Salon...

-Leelan
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Postby Captain Nemo » Mon Mar 21, 2005 4:32 pm

Leelan,

Per your request, I've posted two views of my NAUTILUS model at VSC. The photo quality is so-so, but hopefully it will give you an idea of how the model turned out.

I'll do better when I devote a page to my own model collection at VSC. Meanwhile, here's the link: go there and scroll down to the bottom of the page looking for the word NEW! in red.

http://www.vulcaniasubmarine.com/MISCELLANEOUS%20IMAGES.htm

VBR,

Pat
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Postby modelnut » Wed Mar 23, 2005 11:22 am

Thanks, Pat!

Very nice!

And I agree with you about the quality of the model! :D

It puts the 50th Anniversary statue from China :p to shame.

Would you believe it took a year for me to notice how off-angle the midline was on the port side?
I was just so happy to have it I guess.

-Leelan
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Postby Captain Nemo » Thu Mar 24, 2005 8:31 am

Yer welcome. I'll get a page dedicated to my own models up at VSC one of these days; so far all I've got is pages dedicated to other modelers. Meanwhile, those two views will have to do.

The 31 was kind of a paint experiment looking towards how I'm going to paint the NAUTILUS MINISUB. I think I'll probably do my CR 66-incher about the same way, but that one will have lights.

The Nanking Nautilus might have flaws, but I don't even notice them. It sits on the shelf, I look at it, and it looks like the Nautilus. Good enough.

Still, there is something to be said about a large, finely-detailed NAUTILUS replica. The eye can wander long time without the mind becoming bored.

When you finish your 31 send me a pic or two and I'll publish them at VSC.

:cool:
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