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I need more help - Engel sound module

R/C Submarine modelers

Postby Silent Hunter » Thu Mar 13, 2003 12:34 am

Somebody out there is using one of Engle's sound modules. Is there an easy way to make this thing work? Thanks
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Postby 69-1047320490 » Wed Mar 19, 2003 1:54 pm

Hi Richard:
I also purchased the sound module from Engler and there is some delay in my receiving it. I am familiar with the way Engler does their electronics so if you wish to let me know what the problem is and perhaps fax or e-mail some of their documentation I'm sure I can come up with an answer. First and most important, which radio are you using?

Best Regards, Ed Cannady
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Postby Silent Hunter » Thu Mar 20, 2003 2:42 am

Hi Ed! I'm using the Robbe F-14 Navy. I have both a multiswitch 16 module w/decoder and also a multiprop 8 mdule w/decoder. I'm just not sure how to achieve the various switching requirements to be able to utilize the various sound effects available, and do it "on the fly". However now I have another problem. Look like I've screwed up the programming of the unit, and am going to have to replace it with a new one. Am planning to order up the new one tomorrow so I should have a replacement in hand soon.
Thanks for taking an interest in hepling me out.
Richard
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Postby 69-1047320490 » Thu Mar 20, 2003 12:01 pm

Hi Richard:
It is highly doubtful you screwed up the programming as it is "hard coded" into the PIC. The F-14 expansion modules with the exception of the proportional channels, uses the outer two wires of the servo type connectors as switches to ground. The center wire is power if you need it. When you flip a switch on your transmitter one way, one wire will have ground. Flip the switch the other way and it's the other wire that is now ground, center is off. There is a jumper wire in the expansion module that determines if the momentary switches will "latch", that is act as a somewhat permanent on/off switch. If you use a momentary switch and the jumper is installed, when you flip the momentary switch the first time you get your ground connection. You must flip the switch a second time to turn it off.

Cheers, Ed
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Postby 69-1047320490 » Thu Mar 20, 2003 12:04 pm

No idea what I did to change the font color. Sorry
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Postby Silent Hunter » Thu Mar 20, 2003 6:20 pm

Thanks Ed. I will keep playing with it. I knew about the 2 grounds and the center "hot" pin. I appreciate your input. :)
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Postby TMSmalley » Tue Apr 01, 2003 10:08 am

Hi Ed -
A few other folks have gotten tripped up by the font color problem so I am going to post the "fix" here and then in the forum tips area as well -

To change your font color
Select "YOUR CONTROL PANEL" (in the upper left corner of your screen, just under "Welcome John Doe")

Select "EDIT YOUR PROFILE"

Select "PERSONAL INFO"

Then - at the bottom of the PERSONAL INFO screen you will see "Post Color". There is a tab where you can select what color you want your font to be.

Hope this helps!
Tim Smalley




Edited By TMSmalley on 1049206183
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Postby Ramius-II » Fri Apr 11, 2003 2:45 pm

Ready when you are Richard!
I received my module and understand how it is supposed to work. To have full access to all 16 sounds, you will need 4 switches. 2 on/off type and 2 on/off/on type.

The 2 on/off types are used to address the sound module in "binary" so you have (Sw= Switch) sw #1 on/off and sw #2 on/off. If sw #1 and sw #2 are off, you get the sounds from "bank-1". If sw #1 is off and sw #2 is on, you get the sounds from "bank-2". If sw #1 is on and sw #2 is off, you get "bank-3" and if sw #1 and sw #2 are both on you get "bank-4" Keep in mind there are no colored wires connected to the bank selection, nor any wires at all! ???

The next two on/center off/on type switches are used to select the individual sound within a bank. You could take and set up a pattern that is easy for you to follow such as sw #3 up is the first sound in a bank, sw #4 up is the second sound within a bank, sw #3 down is the third and sw #4 down is the fourth.

I will know a little more after this weekend and I thought I'd at least let you know I hadn't forgotten. :)

Take Care, Ed
Just one more wire!
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Postby Silent Hunter » Sun May 04, 2003 1:48 pm

Thanks Ed. I finally got my replacement from Engel. Took some time, and a few emails to them, with NO replies. Then suddenly it as well as some other parts I had ordered previously all showed up. A bit strange, but I was grateful to get them. Now on to trying to make this thing work! :D I have studied the diagram carefully that came with the module. You're exactly right about the needed switches. My BIG challenge is to make thes switches all operate via R/C. Ive tried using a Robbe Multiswtch 16 expansion module connected directly to the sound module, and it does work, but only for one function. I am going to try using some small switching relays I found for sasle on the Internet. They look to be almost identical to the much more expensive Robbe Duo-Switch. Just not set up with a servo lead.

Here's the URL if you are interested. http://www.smarthome.com/7277.html

Sooooo. Once I get these, I'm pretty sure I'll be able to control ALL 16 functions via the Multiswitch decoder. :laugh:
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Postby Ramius-II » Sun May 04, 2003 11:23 pm

Sounds Great Richard.

Something you might consider in the future for project that do not require switching a lot of power and that is using an "Optical Isolator" such as an NTE3086. Basically it is an LED and a transistor in one package. In the case of the 3086 it's actually two seperate devices in an 8-pin I.C. The Anode goes to +5-6 Volts and the Cathode ( referred to as cathode with a "K" ) goes to "ground" through a 150 ohm resistor! When the LED lights (you can't see it but it does) the transistor conducts just like a switch from the Collector (now you know why they spell cathode with a K) to the emitter. So in the sound module appilcation, the Colletor of each sound module input goes to the collector and the emitter goes to the "common". :)

I tend to stay away from designing with relays, first they take up a lot of room and you also must to remember to add a diode across the coil to prevent back EMF from destroying components. The other advantage to the Opto is that there is no physical connection to the two circuits thus both circuits are completely isolated! :;):

What you picked is really a nice device for many applications. It's good to know about. Thanks.

Best Regards, Ed :D
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Postby Silent Hunter » Mon May 05, 2003 8:56 pm

Now this is REALLY getting my interest! Iv'e never even heard of the device you're talking about, but I'd sure like to know more. Like just how to use it and where to obtain it. You're so right about the relays taking up space. Yes they are nice units. But I'm not saying it's written in stone that I have to use them. I'm open to suggestions, and appreciate any guidance you can send my way. Ed, are you going to use the optical isolator for controlling the sound module? Sounds way cool to me! :D
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