Banner Ad 1

Quick Question...

Place for general submarine conversation

Postby TopGun » Wed Jul 02, 2003 11:25 pm

What is a good way to fill the gap between the top little stern part you cut off and the top larger half? I was thinking of making a little fiberglass lip under one of the halves and just filling the gap with resin then sanding it. Im sure it would give it more strength too... any suggestions?
Tom Kudla
User avatar
Registered User
Posts: 17
Joined: Mon May 12, 2003 1:58 pm

Postby Robse » Fri Jul 04, 2003 6:45 am

Hi, TopGun

I think that sounds right. I've worked alot with Arldite now, and it's pretty easy once you get a little practice. Just remember: DO NOT use a 5 minute, or so. Go for the 16 -> 24hr. types, as they are the only ones that does not go soft on you after a while in the water. (See ThorDesign, or my, website for details on epoxy types) Mix something in the epoxy so it'll don't run on you, forgot what the stuff is called, but maybe you already know about it?

Also, if you use Acrylic / plexi glass, sand the surface that you wanna glue on down. There's almost no glues that will bind on a smooth, untreated surface of plexi glass. (Been there, done that..)
Yours Sincerely, Robert Holsting, Denmark
1/81 SSBN Ohio Class scratch builder, more at

"Never be afraid to try something new; remember that it was amateurs who build Noah's Ark, and professionals who build the Titanic"
User avatar
Registered User
Posts: 187
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2003 3:42 am
Location: Denmark/Europe

Postby ThorDesign » Fri Jul 04, 2003 11:24 am

Use #23 Thixotropic silica and milled fiber to fill in the gap with a long cure resin such as Fibreglast #88/87 resin system. Wipe a thin coat of vaseline on the forward section to be removed both top & bottom. Run a piece of masking tape underneath the aft portion that is to support the filler while it is curing. It acts as a shelf to hold any resin up while it is curing to ensure the gap is filled properly. Mix an equal part of 1/2 catalyzed resin with 1/4 Milled fibers and 1/4 thixotropic silica(cabosil). Mix thoroughly until the mix thickens up to the consisitency of toothpaste. Hold some up on the bottom of a popsicle stick. If it drips add more silica.

Trowel the thickened mixture on top of the masking tape on the hull and slide the forward portion of the hull in place. Wipe off any gross excess with a rag moistened with acetone. Let cure over night.

Come back the next morning and gently pop it loose. Remove your tape and sand down any goobers that are hanging loose or on top of the hull.

You will have an almost invisible seam!

You can get the resin-hardener system 88/87, milled fiber, & #23 Silica at They do sell in small quantities.

I have used their resins for a long time and find them superior.

Registered User
Posts: 347
Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2003 9:16 pm
Location: OZ

Postby Tom Spettel » Sat Jul 05, 2003 2:57 am

Matt.. can it be done using west systems epoxy as well?
A list and a plunge and down she goes to Davy Jones.
Raiders of the Deep
User avatar
Tom Spettel
Registered User
Posts: 94
Joined: Sat Feb 22, 2003 2:46 am

Postby ThorDesign » Sat Jul 05, 2003 10:15 am

Yes. West systems resins are a bit more viscous so you will need to reduce the amount of silica and milled fiber.
Registered User
Posts: 347
Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2003 9:16 pm
Location: OZ

Return to General

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Yahoo [Bot]