Did I at one time say the bottom had far more detail than the top? I was wrong.
Anyways, the hatches had to faired into the hull just like the real boat. This was done by taping off the area that was to receive filler so that the fairings would be consistent shape all around. This was an important step because if my hatches weren’t perpendicular in any way I would have been able to tell when doing the fairing filling...so, no problems were found and full ahead to the next step of fine filling and sanding to blend in. I had to be very careful not to damage any of the sharp lines on the hatches themselves while sanding.
One other thing to mention here and this is par for the course on this build, is that I had to bore out the tops of the hatches and refill. This was because I found some soft spots in the initial material probably from inadequate mixing on my part. No big deal, like I said, par for the course.
Photo etched scribe template:
Now, for what I would term as the major scribing task of this project is the safety track. On my Permit, I used straight edges for guiding my scribe tool and it just didn’t give me the consistent width that I needed. I probably had to do that track over about 6 times! For the Seawolf, the entire track is flush with outer surface of the boat because of the application of the rubber, so this means that its entire length will be scribed and nothing will protrude above. When I say I am going to scribe this detail, it certainly wasn’t the only option at my disposal, and if it failed I would certainly have attempted another technique. But here is what I have done here and it seems to have worked pretty good, although still needing a fixing. Nothing ever seems to work first crack.
My guide for scribing is a custom one. I CA’d proper thickness styrene strip directly to the hull following the proper path. Corners were done in a similar manner in which I did the torpedo door bevelling, kind of a fit as you go deal.
To do the actual scribing, I used a traditional scribing tool to start things off, then a razor saw to dig a wider trench, and then I get in there with a plain old hand held razor for slowly working away inconsistencies.