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Scale Ship Oscar 2

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Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Postby greenman407 » Fri Mar 19, 2010 12:42 pm

Look at this little doo-dad.

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The magnetic linkage connectors are a good Idea, however I am always concerned that they will uncouple at a bad time. I have been using the ball and nylon snap together connecters but we all know how hard it is to get apart. So enter this guy. I use them on my fast model boats as the throttle hook up. They are spring loaded for ease of removal and I have never had one come loose. So I will be using them to connect the planes and rudders to the Subdriver.
There are OLD pilots and there are BOLD pilots but there are very few OLD BOLD pilots. MAG
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Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Postby greenman407 » Fri Mar 19, 2010 12:56 pm

Mr. Nukepower, How are you? Your a brave man! No , I braze quite a bit but I was afraid of a little bit of brass going in the wrong place so I opted for the safer alternative. :lol:
There are OLD pilots and there are BOLD pilots but there are very few OLD BOLD pilots. MAG
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Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Postby Rogue Sub » Fri Mar 19, 2010 7:10 pm

It wasnt that crazy. I mounted the shaft in my drill press to keep it straight used good flux. Hit it with a blow torch and a low melt point solder and it went quick. So fast it doesnt get that hot and...it will never pop off till your ready! I did it with one of vlads props.
Kevin
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Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Postby greenman407 » Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:27 am

Ok so you soldered it , I thought you were talking about brazing. Your still a brave man
There are OLD pilots and there are BOLD pilots but there are very few OLD BOLD pilots. MAG
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Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Postby greenman407 » Mon Mar 22, 2010 12:20 pm

This build is starting to move along pretty good. At this rate I should have it in the water in a couple of months. OK now , on to the forward drive planes.I started out with a measuring tape and a sharp pencil and laid out my bow planes mounting braces on a piece of plastic for cutting with the Dremel.

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This is the size of the brass tube that I used to span the opening because its the perfect size for the bow planes shafts to fit inside.
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Image As you can see I used Dubro 3/16" locking collars with the set screw replaced with a stainless one as a means to lock the planes in place as well as limiters of travel left and right. Also of note is the brazing on of a piece of brass flat bar with a 1/16" hole in it for attaching to my Waterproff servo.

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Image Just make sure that before its tacked in place to make visually sure that the tube is where you want it.
There are OLD pilots and there are BOLD pilots but there are very few OLD BOLD pilots. MAG
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Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Postby Kerry Addington » Mon Mar 22, 2010 2:04 pm

Very clean arrangement of the bow planes.
On my last boat, I began using square tube brass stock for actuating hardware. One size for the "axle" which is attached to the control horn/pushrod, and the next larger ( or smaller ) size stock in the plane/rudder control surface to join with the axle. The two stock sizes obviously index perfectly to each other.The set screws in your wheel collar have a flat mating surface to hit, and do not have to fight any rotational slip. Your control horn could also have a square opening and similar index.
Just throwin' it in...
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Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Postby greenman407 » Mon Mar 22, 2010 3:06 pm

That is a good idea. If I build another submarine in the future I might just incorperate it in. By the way Kerry, I will be mailing out your package tomorrow.
There are OLD pilots and there are BOLD pilots but there are very few OLD BOLD pilots. MAG
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Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Postby Kerry Addington » Mon Mar 22, 2010 3:13 pm

"If" you build another sub in the future?
HA !
By the way, using square shafting on my 1/96 Seawolf, after alignment I only needed to silicone the square bow plane shafts to the axle/rotation shaft. No wheel collars.
Thanks for all your help. Any plans for coming to the Subregatta?
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Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Postby greenman407 » Mon Mar 22, 2010 4:12 pm

I would love to go but its too far for me! I may buy some of the DVDs from the regatta and pretend I was there. :)
There are OLD pilots and there are BOLD pilots but there are very few OLD BOLD pilots. MAG
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Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Postby greenman407 » Wed Mar 24, 2010 9:38 am

The Quote/unquote waterproff servo by Traxxas needs some help to keep the water out. On my Albacore I used a regular o-ring and a flat thin stainless washer. This time I am going a different route.

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You can see here the quad ring that has the advantage of multiple sealing surfaces(a lip on all corners). It is available at hydraulic supply stores. I have a selection to choose from at work. The size that I chose is .208 x .070 . It is a good interference fit to the servo shaft. Coat it with silicone grease, install the servo arm and screw and tighten it down until you can see and feel the quad-ring start to deform. So far this has worked well.

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The servo needs to be coated with some kind of sealer. I used Goop. You can see it here being drizzled over the areas in the case where it comes apart as well as the heads of the screws and where the wires go inside.

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And here she is installed.
There are OLD pilots and there are BOLD pilots but there are very few OLD BOLD pilots. MAG
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Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Postby greenman407 » Thu Mar 25, 2010 12:14 pm

On to the stern section. The Scaleships supplied propshaft bearings/bushings are about 2and 1/2" long. Even so I want additional support at the other end of the shafts. Also I dont want the props rubbing on the hull and bushings creating unwanted drag, soooo

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There are OLD pilots and there are BOLD pilots but there are very few OLD BOLD pilots. MAG
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Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Postby greenman407 » Thu Mar 25, 2010 12:29 pm

What I have done here is to make a transverse bulkhead to carry the load generated by the props pushing the sub and the propshafts vibration and torque and inertia and centrifical forces and all the udder stuff that I dont know about and dont want to know about :) The bushings are super duper oilites from stock drive products of the 5mm variety. To increase stiffness of the transverse member I cut another piece and plastic welded it to form an angle. It will be epoxied into the hull at the proper location. To absorb and transfer the propellor forces I installed 3/16" thrust bearings. Since I couldnt find 5mm ones I had to open them up a wee bit with a abrasive Dremel bit. Amazingly the hardened flat washers opened up easily but the bearing cage( made out of some weird plastic stuff) gave me a time, tuff stuff. The brass drive couplers also had to be drilled out to 5mm and the set screws replaced. Once this is epoxied in place it will restrict access to the planes and rudders , so there is more work to be done on them so I will wait to put this in until later.
There are OLD pilots and there are BOLD pilots but there are very few OLD BOLD pilots. MAG
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Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Postby greenman407 » Thu Mar 25, 2010 12:32 pm

Also the props which are left hand and right hand have to go on oriented correctly so this picture will come in handy.
Image I wonder if they have as much trouble with their setscrews as I do with mine :o
There are OLD pilots and there are BOLD pilots but there are very few OLD BOLD pilots. MAG
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Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Postby Scott T » Fri Mar 26, 2010 12:11 pm

What do you think about attaching some block in the hull to attach your angle+bushing assembly with screws
so you can remove the angle for future drydock work. Probably keying the mounts and angle would keep the
angle from getting out of adjustment.

Scott :?:
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Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Postby greenman407 » Fri Mar 26, 2010 1:16 pm

Thanks Scott. Yes I was mulling over the idea of attaching it from the outside with screws, but then you would see the heads of the screws. What you are suggesting I think is to epoxy a block to the inside and put screws through that into the crossmember........ That is a possibility. Let me chew on that one for a while. Thanks for the Idea :idea: :!: :wink:
There are OLD pilots and there are BOLD pilots but there are very few OLD BOLD pilots. MAG
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