Take a look at this!
As you can see, a gap between the upper and lower hulls but only here at the back on one side. Everywhere else is fine. Now watch what happens when I put a little pressure on it with my hand. WALLAH!!! It disappears like magic.
I dont think that Im even going to attempt to do anything about it. Where the top hull joins the stern section Im going to install two screws anyway. Thatll pull it together and solve da... problem.
Now on to udder stuff. After you guys recommended that I put some frames in the upper hull I set out to do just that.
After marking the areas that I wanted to support I employed a little known but highly effective means of determining the exact shape of the frame at each location. Its called the farm boy method. Observe! Measure across the width of the hull at that point. Then measure how deep you want it to be. Cut a piece of plastic that size in a rectangular shape. Lower it into the hull to get a feel for how much material you will need to remove. Take it out and go to your trusty belt sander or table mounted sander and start by rounding the corners, in this case because of the shape of the hull. Then try it and see how it fits. Then take off some more and put it back in and check it.If you go too far, stop and take that frame and trace around it on new material noting your error and try again. After a while youll pick up on it and each frame will go a little faster. Thats why I call it the farm boy method as you make due with what you have. You dont employ mold release and squirt in foam or wax or cardboard or any of such high technology.
Oh yeah , here I am rambling and I almost forgot. Dont forget about cutting in a radius where the frame meets the hull to allow air to move past the frames and not get bunched up. Also measure the distance between the top of the wtc and the upper hull so that you can cut in a relief as you see here for clearance. Seeya
There are OLD pilots and there are BOLD pilots but there are very few OLD BOLD pilots. MAG