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STARK MODELS 1/72nd STURGEON

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STARK MODELS 1/72nd STURGEON

Postby STARK » Wed Oct 29, 2008 6:29 pm

The Hull Detail


So I was near leaving this boat behind with the 212 never ending story , but I found new wind in the sails to get me going on the near complete project here. I set out doing some scribing on the hull top here and their and wound up going over all that was their, and found items on the plans that were not scribed in before.

Using the Greg Sharp plans, I found that a lot of little bit’s were left off the hull from Dan, and I like a finer scribe line on my models. Most of the shapes were found in my Template collection, but others had to be made by the old fashion way of filing brass sheet to get my scribing template. There is a second coarse of action and that is Photo Etching your Templates, but I am not that tried and tested in the method.

So basically I tend to copy right off the plans the shapes needed to be engraved to the subject. In this case I still had room on the first Template I made by hand for the Sturgeon’s Sail and having them all on one sheet will be good if I needed to redo any of them later. I made the pattern on the brass and then drilled out a few access holes, from here I used my Vertical file tool to do the main filing, then I tighten up the corners by hand file.

On the bottom I wanted recessed flood drains, I took a Q from Steve and Pete the way they enjoy doing recessed detail areas. Using regular auto body tape and laid my template over it, then cut out the shapes and placed them where the plans showed the flood vents to be. For the circles I used a punch for the tape cut and placed it on the hull. Priming over these later will build up a film so when the tape is removed it will leave a recessed pattern, and the results worked well! With enough primer build up (4 to 5 coats) the look was achieved with great results, and can be done even more efficiently with a vinyl printer set up that will cut the patterns from your drawings. I talked with Joel the other day and some good news for me is he had offered to send me a set of his Photo Etch work to use on the Sturgeon, at first I did not think that would be of any good to me cause of two different subs, but then it would be very nice to have his MBV etch part’s for the model. My plan for that is to simply dig out the round vents you see on the model, and apply the etch parts in to the sub’s hull, I will set the pieces so they are just a tad raised to the hulls surface skin. The mold process will pick the finest detail when done and their will be no need to include them as PE part’s for the boat, I will however make up grills for the bottom floods. Also I have made the Cleats for the top of the hull and plan to dig out the upper hull spot’s on the model and insert them. Later a modeler can fill in the fine engraved lines and set the cast cleat itself in they wish!

Still plan on adding a few other things in the way of detail to the hull but the look of the deck is getting closer now, when this is done I am off to molds for this boat.

MORE TO COME

Brian

Photos in order of Before to now.
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Postby Bigdave » Wed Oct 29, 2008 6:54 pm

Show off!! :roll: :lol:
Your scribing is as usual excellent Sir!! 8) :D
I am so jellous. :oops: :D BD.
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Postby ManOwaR » Wed Oct 29, 2008 8:18 pm

Yay!
It must feel good to be getting this old lady done...and in deluxe fashion!
I'll try to get that PE to you as fast as possible so you don't loose any steam Brian.

Joel
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Postby STARK » Wed Oct 29, 2008 10:23 pm

Thank you both, it is just practice and staying at it, something you two have shown us all!!!
I look forward to the parts Joel and to getting her done, I am working with two guy's right now on plans for other sub's to do/finish and will show them soon.

Brian
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Postby ManOwaR » Thu Oct 30, 2008 9:17 am

Now, for the recessed flood and vent technique, The pictures show here that the edge line came out very sharp and crisp, this was accomplished by using a single layer of tape? I remember reading something Pete wrote up awhile ago and he used what looked to be a more complex laminated system using several layers of tape and wax paper I think. I've always wanted to try that...maybe on something in the future. Also, for you buildup around the tape I would assume that you used the basic acrylic fill 'n sand as opposed to the two part epoxy primer?

Joel
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Postby STARK » Thu Oct 30, 2008 10:57 am

Thanks Joel I can hardly wait for them!!!

Yes a single lair of tape was used, if you want the effect deeper than you simply add another lair of tape increasing the depth. It is the Primer Build Up that does the job here, I saw no need to have this effect any deeper than one lair because after all it would be removed on the model for working water flow later on the copies.
I used a two part Acrylic Urethane 2K Primer Surfacer, but the product u use will be great for the job, and good old Lacquer Fill & Sand will be just fine as well. I did lay a razor blade flush to the hull be fore the primer was cured all the way and slice through the build up film, this was so very simple that the tape was revealed as I cut the film off. But this was not necessary, just my impatiens to move along and it did save time in sanding later!
When your primer is cured you just need to block sand down to the top of the tape and stop, then peel out the tape and remove any left over tape goo.
I do believe that this method combined with fine scribing skill’s is like the WTC to the Radio Control Submarine and I am going to use in my bag of tricks from here on out!
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Postby STARK » Thu Oct 30, 2008 7:46 pm

I have planed to excavate the cleat areas in the model and fill them with a cast part I would make, after making one of the parts, I captured it in a quick set mold. I could have just scribed the area and left it at that, or even work the hull to except a cast part for the modeler to insert and finish, I have seen that on Merriman’s Skipjack model and it works nice! But I want the part to be cast in my master for less casting later, so I will do all the finish work for each one now.

The next thing to dig out will be the Main Ballast Vent’s, when the PE Part’s arrive from Joel, and each will get set in the hull the same way with a little body work, then a finish prime, Buff the masters, and make the production mold.

MORE TO COME

Brian

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Postby roedj » Mon Nov 24, 2008 4:30 pm

Brian,

I have some questions about your scribing methods:

1) In some of the pix I see a Dremel stylus tool. Is that what you used to "dig out" the recesses for the PE parts?

2) If you would, please, share with us what do you use for scribing tools? Do you try for a constant depth of a scribe? How do you achieve that? Perhaps it's just lots of experience or do you use some sort of a mechanical stop on the scribing tool?

Thanks for your help,

Dan :?:
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Postby STARK » Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:44 pm

Scribing is really so very simple and I have somewhat perfected a style that I would think many do the same way. I have a new form started and I will post each method in detail for all to read. But just getting started now. http://forum.model-marina.com/

Ok you want to scribe your model, and you want to keep a certain depth, no problem! First you are going to want to place in pencil any and all shapes of the scribed detail you want on the model, then I find a Template of the detail to use as a guide, This is placed over the pencil mark you placed on the model, then you begin to scribe. Now your scribe tool is set to the templates edge and just dragged along following the template. For your first pass press lightly so you just score the surface, then on each pass after the first increase your pressure a tad on the pull. Count the number of passes as you go, this is how you get the same depth for the next scribe.

With my work scribed and sometimes looking a tad raggedy, I swipe the engraved lines with Nitra Stan glaze putty, then while wet still I re-scribe right then and their for a crisp line when needed. This will be followed up by sand paper and some steel wool to clean up the engraved line, then prime to check for any defects.

And yes the Dremel works great for that, and some time I did out small areas of Glass in a model and then fill with Glaze so I have a better surface to scribe in.

Brian
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Postby Bigdave » Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:17 am

The Dremel stylus is the best thing since sliced bread. :shock: :D
I find nine times out of ten it is the first tool I grab to cut, grind or sand.
It also fits perfictly in my fat little hands. :roll: :lol: . BD.
8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
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Postby STARK » Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:52 am

It's a Great tool for sure, I saw an add somewhere and bought one then I had read where you were praising the tool. Guess we got one about the same time a few years back, I see they have it in a screw gun now.

Brian
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Postby lulatos » Sun Dec 14, 2008 11:39 am

STARK wrote:It's a Great tool for sure, I saw an add somewhere and bought one then I had read where you were praising the tool. Guess we got one about the same time a few years back, I see they have it in a screw gun now.

Brian

H 8) ello, I want to know if this kit can be order it and what is the price?
About the others models kit like Permit, USS JACK, are they for sale like models kits? and what are the price?
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