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1/32nd OTW Designs S Class build thread

This is the place to post your submarine build- ups.

Postby dhffr » Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:51 pm

A WWII style photo attempt:


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Postby Warpatroller » Thu Feb 19, 2009 3:18 am

Very cool looking model Darrin!

It looks from your prior posts that you built a box style pressure hull for the boat. How did you go about sealing the lid to keep the water out? What material did you use to construct the box and lid?

Also what sort of linkage did you use to translate the rotary shaft motion to the planes and rudder? I understand the push, pull rod linkages for this purpose, but am not sure how you set these up for rotary motion coming out of the pressure box or WTC. It seems like the plane/rudder connections would have to be more complex?

Steve
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Postby dhffr » Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:33 pm

Steve,

The pushrods are quite simple. I do have a bellcrank for the stern planes because the linkage goes into the skeg. I will take a photo this weekend. As for materials, the box is 1/4" worth of fiberglass and the lid is siliconed on. If the internals are built properly, you will rarely need to cut the lid off. All necessary work is done through the endcap. Works great for me. Everything in there is overbuilt, properly fastened and thoroughly tested.


Darrin
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Postby Warpatroller » Thu Feb 19, 2009 3:36 pm

Thanks for the info Darrin. So you've essentially permanently sealed your lids to your boxes (looks like you have more than one), then put a WTC style end cap in the lid. Seems like that allows limited access, maybe just to get to the receiver? What about accessing your batteries? Is there a particular reason why you choose not to use a cylindrical WTC?

I have just recently acquired a complete 32nd Parallel XXIII deluxe kit and I am currently trying to figure out what I am going to do with it pressure hull wise. The stock plastic pressure hull is currently WELL glued (with epoxy it looks like) into place inside the hull. It has been suggested that I attempt to remove it and use a cylindrical WTC instead, but it looks like it will be one hell of a job to extract it from the hull without cracking open or breaking the hull itself. So I am investigating if I can somehow install cross braces inside the stock pressure box to prevent water pressure from flexing the box and disturbing the rubber gasket lid seal. At least your lids are transparent, the lid on this XXIII box is opaque so you cannot visually see inside the box to spot leakage.
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Postby dhffr » Thu Feb 19, 2009 8:02 pm

Steve,

I use a traditional WTC for the batteries and snort pumps. This allows quick access for a battery charge.

I think this is my 9th running sub so I took all the things I like and incorporated them into the S. The radio box needs no access. If there is a problem, I cut the lid and reattach it with silicone for the next day. That is a tradeoff I am willing to accept.


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Postby junglelord » Thu Feb 19, 2009 8:26 pm

Interesting nibs sticking up...how do they attach to the removable upper hull section?
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Postby dhffr » Fri Feb 20, 2009 12:41 pm

deck has holes in it to align it with the lower. Easiest way to prevent bowing out on large hulls. The white funnel looking thing at the bottom is a receiver to bolt down the hull.

Darrin
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Postby dhffr » Mon Feb 23, 2009 12:12 pm

Had a great run at Cerritos Regional park. 1 shot is with my Dad's 1/32nd yard tug and the others are with Mike Dory's type 7. It was great to compare the 2 in the water.



Darrin
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Postby U812 » Mon Feb 23, 2009 10:02 pm

Darrin the next time you guys do this let me know and I'll make the effort to come down there!

They both look great!

Steve
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Postby roedj » Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:31 am

Darrin,

Very beautiful work, Sir.

Have you had an opportunity to weigh the boat all fitted out but out of the water? I'm trying to get an idea of just how easy such a boat is to move about.

Thanks for your time,

Dan
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Postby dhffr » Tue Feb 24, 2009 11:29 am

The boat weighed out at 38 pounds dry. A simple water hoist on wheels would make it easy to get out of the water.
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Postby roedj » Tue Feb 24, 2009 2:27 pm

Darrin,

Wow! I would not have been surprised if you had said it weighed twice that.

Just to make sure we're on the same page, we are talking about about a boat that has all the batteries, motors, electronics, etc that's ready to go in the water. Right?

Up to now my only reference has been Johann Sauer's Walter XVIII which he said weighed about 70 pounds or more. Of course, it was entirely a dry hull type. Maybe that's the difference.

I was going to pass on the OTW S sub because of weight. Now, I'm not so sure.

Thanks again,

Dan
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Postby dhffr » Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:40 pm

If you use Bobs WTC, It should be even lighter. My watertight boxes were WAY overbuilt. Its truly the perfect size boat.



(added)

Yes, that's the final weight minus Propel. Getting it out of the water is no sweat if you have alot of drain holes on the bottom. Mine empty's in 10 seconds.

Darrin
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Postby dhffr » Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:47 pm

4th run yesterday. All went really well again.

Darrin
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Postby Warpatroller » Fri Mar 13, 2009 10:42 pm

You not only build great models, you do great paint work and you take great pictures of them! There should be photos of this boat on the OTW website as a finished example of a pro built kit.

That is one kick ass sub Sir!
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