I will do some updating later. Submarines are not my only hobby.
I just finished it a match grade 10/22 rifle with titanium parts, aluminum barrel with steel insert and fluting,match grade trigger job, laminated monte carlo stock, and some other things.
Hey, I am not the modeller of the caliber of what I saw at the regatta. My deal is I am good at digging up information.A reaserch guy. But I am making a swing, just like anyone else, and not afraid to make mistakes! They can be fixed.
I hit on a small problem on the seawolf, but corrected it last weekend.
Hope you dont mind. I will post my happenings here.
I started here:
Getting all the parts seperated and grouped:
Clean all the parts to remove the mold release. Soap,water, and steel wool
Here I have opened the holes up. Also took a file to the side arrays to properly soften them up and get the hard edges off.
A little work on the sail. Removed the bump in the front and filled in the light/horn? Whatever it was, it got smoothed out for submurged ops.
Index lip being added front and rear. Later I added some tabs on the sides to help pull the hull together tighter.
The D&E upgrade kit. Awsome!! Avalible through Casewell. A correct pumpjet, new appendages, etc. All top shelf stuff. The Seawolf model, this upgrade, and a subdriver wtc is all that is needed.
An excellent choice for a first build.
Etch time for the white metal parts. Ok, maybe you dont need to do this, but after some light dressing on the impellor, Off into the PCB (avalible at Radio Shack)with the stern plane yoke etc.. PCB is some nasty stuff. Note I am scared enough of it I wore gloves. Note the dang yogart cups. (I am dieting). One has the PCB, the other has the water for second dip to stop the acid.
It etches the metal for good adhesion for paint.
Even though no one would see it, I etched the yokes and linkage arm, then painted them black. Extra stuff, but I have time.
The hull flexes a lot, like a piece of vinal siding for a house. Because of this, I think it is a good idea to mount the bow planes before glueing the nose and tail on. Once the bow planes go on, and are faired into the hull, there is almost no flexing to the rest of the build.
Here is where I made two mistakes, and corrected them.
Mistake one, I removed the front bulkhead entirely. This left lots of flex in the hull after I attached the upper and lower halves together. I would have done fine by only opening up the bottom and top of the forward bulkhead for flooding. I did open the rear bulkhead per Mr. Merrimen's directions.
By the way, a full set of how-to-do-it is on the D&E website.
What happened in my case was as I sanded and worked around the bowplanes, (mounted one half inche above centerline) the nose flexed enough it cracked loose.
I solved this by coming back after I was done with the bow planes, cleaned the upper and lower halves, and added a index lip around the inside, greatly adding to adheasion surface area. Worked great!
By the way, I am using plain ol Testor's cement.
Mistake two. While I was sanding around the base of the bow planes, I somehow inadvertantly caught some of the "base" of the planes, ruining a perfect, tight fit, to the planes.
I got mad at myself, and walked away for several weeks...
What to do? Ask the man in the cave for another set? No. I would rather chew off my arm! Remebering a solution to a fit problem I had on another hull, I built up the bases with ca and baking soda. Then carefully filed and sanded, until I got a tight fit again. Some evercoat to finish, and all was well..
Major big tip here!!! Most of us are 40 or better. Even if not, this is a huge help!! I got this idea from Gail Phillips. The Optivisor. Essential for up close detail. Get one!
The tail section where it joins is a little flat. Kevin mentioned earlier if I put enough on
Yep. It only took a minute, maybe two to wet sand this by hand to bring it back to correct. The nose had some overbite. Evercoat solved this and eleminated seams.
Added index lips here. Same plastic stip I bought at the hobby shop for the front and rear. It pulled the slight waves in the upper and lower toether, just as I thought.
Note the impellor is now primed properly. It is really nice to have this avalible for this build.
The target 22 upper I have been working on. Gonna be rough on the squirrles......
First layer of primer to show imperfections. I used a laquer primer. Maybe not the way to go nowdays. I got the idea from Matt Thor. It shows everything. I like it. There are a few minor imperfections, but I am now good to go to adding the tailfeathers. What is left can be done near final paint. I work this coming weekend, so it might be two weeks, if I cannot get to it after work.
I am in no rush. The wtc has not arrived for me yet (Dave must be busy)