After the resin started to get set up, but before it hardened, I used and Xacto knife to trim the excess glass and create the edge of the misslile deck.
I put the tape on the hull underneath to hopefully protect the hull's surface, along with wax paper, from the resin and the knife blade. Found out that epoxy resin soaks through wax paper, and my sharp Xacto blade easily cuts through the tape into the finish on the hull. So I've given myself a setback as I'll have to go back and repair that.
In the last pic you can see some of the resin on the hull's surface below the edge of the missile deck.
Before putting on the icing, I re-prepared the hull surface with some PVA mold release where the front of the missile deck would touch the front raised portion of the hull.
And since I cut through the previous wax paper, I had to re-wrap the hull in new stuff.
Here you see the icing body filler going on to fill the weave and straighten out the surface.
In order to get the fairwater edge of the missile deck right I marked a line where if the sides came all the way down they would touch the hull. Then I ran a tape line up against that, for one, to make it easy to see, and two, give me an edge to run my putty knife along while filling with icing. I needed to do this to build up the width of the fairwater edge so it would stick out from the hull the proper distance to get that shadow cast against the hull below it. Besides, it would be nearly impossible to put filler right up to the existing edge and not go over it anyway.
Then I filled in all the way down to the top all the way around the fairwater edge.
Then, before the putty set up, I ran the putty knife along the top edge of the tape, feathering the filler out to the same contour as the sides of the missile deck. I put three layers of tape on for the tape guide edge because I guessed that was how thick I would need to make the proper overhang.
I waited until the putty got set up just enough to where it was still soft and kind of rubbery, the with the Xacto knife I re-established the fairwater edge, keeping it horizontal to make the bottom edge flat.
Then again before it set up, I could peel the excess away leaving a nice clean edge.
And the three layers of tape turned out to be just right.
Some more damage to the hull—the acrylic stand I made was just a little small, and pushing down on it to sand the turtle back in 90 degree heat ended up denting in the bottom sides of the hull. I'll have to fix that when I repair the cut marks in the top.
As far as the deck goes, after putting the filler putty all over it to fill the glass weave and square the shape up better, I sanded it down with a sanding block.
Then I sprayed on a few coats of filler primer, and used a body shop technique I got from Brian Stark to help identify knicks and low spots. I mist coated the whole deck with a contrasting color of primer.
Once it's dry, I block sanded it again. Wherever the contrasting spots are it indicates low spots, and that's where to put either more putty or glazing, depending upon the depth that needs filling.
This revealed a few dents, but lots of deep scratches from the course sand paper I used to cut the body filler down. So instead of screwing around a little at a time, I coated the crap outta this thing with the glazing putty.
More block sanding to get it level.
And more filler primer to see where I'm at.
Well, looks pretty good, but I'm going to do one more misting coat to make sure I got everything and then wet sand with 400 grit paper to finish up the deck.
As you may have noticed, I filleted in the body filler over the edge of the raised portion of the front of the hull where the missile deck connects. This gave me a perfect transition from one to the other, as on the real boat there's no separation here. I'm doing it this way for moulding reasons, and to be able to remove just the missile deck to access the mechanicals, instead of separating the whole top half of the hull.
More to come.