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1/96 Ohio SSBN/SSGN build underway

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Postby Bigdave » Thu Jun 19, 2008 2:38 pm

Here is a photo of one of the molds I made. The Rubber glove mold is Rebound-25. The tan mother mold is the Plasit-Paste. BD.
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Postby Pirate » Sat Jul 05, 2008 12:13 am

Ok. I know it's been a while, but I've been hard at work making the RTV mold for the main hull. It's been a slow and tedious process, but I want to make sure I get it right. The material for this boat's mold is so expensive, I don't want to have to do it again.

From last time, I redid the second side of the mold for the turtleback out of epoxy-glass instead of the RTV so it would have a more definite and reproducible affect on creating the edges of the turtleback where it meets up against the hull. Here is that mold now pulled apart showing the rubber mold of the top of the deck next to the hardback.
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This next picture shows a close-up of the key indents in the hardback. I show this to make a point on a mistake that I made.
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Now of you remember, or look back, at the little nubs I made on the RTV part of the mold, I used little pieces of straws to create them. This made very tall, round nubs that were flat on the ends. You can see here that the resulting holes are very deep. When I tried to put this rubber part back into the hardback, it was near impossible to get all the nubs all the way back into these holes. The reason was because they were so deep and straight that air was trapped in the holes and wouldn't let the rubber go all the way in because the rubber sealed it off in there. There was no where for the air to go.

I ended up cutting the nubs down to be much shorter, but I think I'll have to drill holes though each nub hole to allow the air to escape once the nubs are put into them so they seat down completely.

What I learned from this is to make my keys more shallow. And I think the ideal shape would be a half sphere which will give the best chance for air to get around the key and let it seat in a hardback properly.

That leads me to something I saw on a How To video on line about making keys. It said to poor some of the RTV material, or whatever you're using to make your soft molds, into a flat dish/container of some sort to a depth of between 1/8 and 1/4 inch. Then once cured, take the slab of RTV out and cut it into pieces to use as keys.

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Once you've got all the layers of RTV built up to where you want it, in my case the manufacturer recommends 1/2 inch thick, while the last layer is still tacky place the keys onto the surface. Use some thinned material and brush in over the keys to seal them on and soften the shapes a bit. Here they are on my mold.

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Now what's taken so long was building up this RTV. I brushed on the first coat to make sure i got all the detail captured. Then i spread thickened TRV on with a putty knife for two more layers. This built up a little more than the brushed on layer, but each coat ended up so rough, because it was so sticky to the putty knife, that it was surely going to have too many sticking up pieces and undercuts it would stick to the hardback that would go over it. So I put the remainder of coats on using the brush. These coats were no more than 1/8 inch thick, and since it takes 4 hours for each layer to cure, it took many nights to get it all built up enough.

After it was all cured, I decided to make the hardback a two-piece mold just to make sure there would be no undercuts that would get caught to it. So I had to build a dividing wall down the center to separate the two halves.

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Then for the hardback, I decided to try the Smooth-On brand Plasti-paste that Big Dave recommended. Mostly because the cost compared to all the epoxy-glass I would need to use was so much cheaper. One gallon of this Plasti-Paste is $55. One gallon of epoxy resin is around $120; plus all the glass cloth. Although I know it won't take a whole gallon of epoxy to do this, it does take a long time to cure. This Plasti-Paste sets up fast, and says it can be demolded in 90 minutes—wow!

This stuff worked pretty good, and it goes on very easy, and does cure very fast.

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I know it is full of fiber shreds, which gives it good strength, but i am still worried about a mold this long holding together, so I covered the whole thing with one layer of glass.

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So one half was done, but it took the whole gallon of Plast-Paste to do it.

Before I could add the second half, I needed to make some keys in the first half. I used a recessed screw bit to make female keys in it.
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It was July 3rd, and I had the long three-day weekend ahead of me to get some good work done on this, but through mail-order I won't be able to get more Plast-Paste until the middle to end of next week. I'll never make it to have a completed kit by regatta time if I wait for that, so I went back to making the other half from epoxy-glass.

This time, to build up the angles and sharp edges where it goes over the keys and the edge next to the board, I added some Cab-o-sil, silicon filler, to the resin, and built and filled these areas to make them softer shapes so the glass would drape better over them. THis will keep air bubbles out and keep it stronger. I used 4 layers of glass, with two of them place on a bias. That is the weave of the glass turned 45 degrees. That is supposed to make it more rigid. Stable in 4 directions instead of just 2. Here it is complete.

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Once cured I can turn it over and start on the other side. While I wait, I may cast some of the other parts.

I don't know if I'll post any more before the Sub Regatta because I want to use all my spare time to work on the model, instead of resizing and uploading pictures of it. But even though you may not hear form me until after August 4, I will be working hard.
Last edited by Pirate on Tue Aug 05, 2008 9:31 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby U812 » Sat Jul 05, 2008 2:18 pm

Pete you are doing great. All correct an proper. Good job.

Steve
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Postby Rogue Sub » Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:16 pm

Ok Pete lets see what you brought to the show!!!!! Wish we could have got together like last time. Im anxiuos to pick it over.

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Postby Wayne Frey » Mon Aug 04, 2008 6:19 am

Just sitting there, it had a presence to it!!
I am still driving home, but no doubt, either myself or someone else will post some pictures from the regatta.
Awsome is a good word to decribe Pete's work.
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Postby Pirate » Mon Aug 04, 2008 1:38 pm

Well, I haven't posted for about a month as I scrambled to get a kit done to take to the SubRegatta in Carmel. Now I'm back, and I can show all the progress that's been made.

I did get one kit 95% complete to show in Carmel. That kit is now delivered to its proud pappa, Mr. Shagane, who made the first deposit for one.

Along with what you will see in the final pictures of this post, there will also be WTC saddles for a D&E 3.5 WTC, and perhaps a prop made by, I won't name any names, but most of you know him as the best man in the business. Provided he has the time. So everything will ship together as a kit, then the prop may have to come a little bit later, but it will be well worth the wait!

Enough chattering. I'll let the photo do the rest of the talking.
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First mold—SUCCESS!


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First pull of the missile deck.

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This shows a little trick I discovered in laying the glass. Ideally you don't want any puddling of resin on the glass. This is not so easy to do, especially if a spot is being difficult in wetting out. So what I discovered is that by laying a paper towel over any areas where the resin is puddling up, it gets absorbed up into the paper towel. Leave it sit for a few minutes and you can see it soak up. Then carefully pull it up, and nice glass job. JUST MIND HOW LONG OF CURE YOUR CATALYST IS AND DON'T LEAVE IT ON TO LONG TO STICK.


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Rough pulls. Need to be cleaned up and fitted.

Here are the pieces all cleaned up.

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Other urethane cast parts.

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This is the tail piece I mentioned in an earlier post. The shaft and Oilite bearing are centered and molded in place. All you have to do is after putting the tail top and bottom sections together, cut off the back where marked with a recessed line, then install this piece in it's place. Of course you'll still need to line it up with your WTC, but still very simple.

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Here is a shot of my Ohio master sitting alongside Don Osler's Lafayette Class at the regatta to see how they size up. The Ohio is 1/96 scale. The Lafayette 1/100. Not quite exact, but awfully close.

I'm now in the production phase. After nearly 3 months straight of working on this every night, and staying up until 3 a.m. or all night the whole time, It's kind of burned me out. So right now I'm thinking of only making a limited number of kits—perhaps 10. I've got one done, four on a waiting list, so that leaves five more.

If you are interested in getting one of these, get your order in. It's first come, first serve, so don't wait.

My email is on this site for members to see, or pm me here too with questions and order interest, and I'll get back with you to work out the details.
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Postby Pirate » Mon Aug 04, 2008 1:44 pm

For some reason it wouldn't attach the last two photos, so here's another try.
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Postby Rogue Sub » Mon Aug 04, 2008 3:35 pm

All hail the new Ohio model standard!

This is going to be my crown jewel Pete and I am frothing at the mouth!!!!!!!!

I had no idea you had met your goal on this one for the time line of the regatta. I am now very sad I did not make the regatta.

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Postby U812 » Mon Aug 04, 2008 6:12 pm

Nice work Pete. Your best yet!

Steve
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Postby Wayne Frey » Tue Aug 05, 2008 1:10 pm

A hull that will not disappoint!!
I put my hands on it, turned it over, looked at the hatches and scribe lines. If anyone is even thinking about getting one, do it!!
Pete has even added an index pin,front and rear, on the missle deck, that is trick also. all cut out points are relived in the hull, even beneath the missle deck. Also added are the upper hull frame stations that interlock with the lower hull index. Nice!!!
And yes, taking orders now!

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Postby Bigdave » Tue Aug 05, 2008 1:46 pm

The photos don't do the hull justice. The detail is amazing!!
Very nice work Pete!! 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) BD.
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Postby U812 » Tue Aug 05, 2008 2:04 pm

Outstanding Pete!

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Postby Pirate » Tue Aug 05, 2008 8:58 pm

Thank you gentlemen.
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Postby Pirate » Sun Aug 10, 2008 9:38 pm

Now working on the masts for Mr. Ohio. I'll post pictures when I have them.

Pete
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Postby Pirate » Sun Aug 10, 2008 11:17 pm

Here are the Ohio masts.

From right to left, I've got an attack and nav scopes, two antennae, and some other little anttena that comes up right between the periscopes. The last one on the left is one that's on the new SSGN. It comes up through a clamshell door on the starboard side aft of the antenna where on the SSBN there is no mast. I'm not sure what it is. I'm thinking GPS. Does anyone else know?
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