Happy Easter Everybody. Another day in Paradise.
I played some more with the fairwater and bridge last night, completing it just before the worst hail storm I’ve ever been through and I have lived in Oklahoma for most of my life. They weren’t the biggest ones I’ve seen, ranging from maybe nickel size to golf ball size, but there was more of it and it lasted longer than any event I’ve experienced. Our backyard was completely white and looked like it had snowed. The sound was horrendous and our cats were freaking out. Two just disappeared and one was just hollering. I couldn’t help but wonder what the heck birds do during a storm like that. We had a new roof put on last fall and it looks OK from the ground, but I would be surprised if it isn’t damaged.
Anyway, back to the important stuff…
I started by drawing a circle and an ellipse, in preparation for thinning the forward face of the fairwater.
Which I then lofted…
I then prepared to cut out the bulge on the inside. The polylines shown in the image below were created by tracing the outside surface of the bulge and moving it in to maintain the proper thickness.
The polylines were then lofted, with an elliptical arc being used as a path between the top two sections, and the resulting shape was subtracted.
Doing this left the forward knob, for attaching the part to the bridge, hanging mostly in space, as can be seen in the previous image. So, I sliced it off and added a new attachment stud to the front edge.
Having modified the connecting points on the fairwater, I had to modify the bridge accordingly, so I opened the bridge drawing and copied it to the fairwater drawing. Since I used the datum points to copy it, it was positioned correctly and so I subtracted the fairwater from the bridge to create the female mate to the stud I just created. I then copied it again. In the image below I moved it for snapping the image. Note that I also opened the conning tower drawing and copied it to the fairwater drawing in preparation for my next endeavor…
…Which was the forward bridge hatch, which was made possible thanks to the excellent picture TomD posted. In the image below you can see the tracings of the outside edge of the conning tower (red) and the inside edge of the fairwater (blue). The red solid is the first level of the hatch. Due to the fact that my bulkheads are considerably thicker than the real deal, the scale is not correct. I don’t know the true dimensions of the hatches, but I would guess them to be at least 2-1/2’ in diameter, and probably more like 3’. The diameter of mine is only 2’ in diameter (1/4” at 1/144 scale). Note the attachment hole I created previously (gray).
The yellow in the image below is the start of the handle. Although you can’t really see it, the surface slopes up from the outside edge, to the handle.
Next, I drilled holes in the handle. I used circles, because even though the holes don’t appear to be circular on the picture Tom D posted, at this scale, circles will work, I think, if they are even visible.
The support arms for the hatch were made next using an extruded polyline that was then mirrored around the center axis of the hatch.
Finally, the hinge was created using a circle lofted between the arms.
The various components were then joined to each other and attached to the bridge.
Having completed the hatch, I isolated the bridge and copied it back to the bridge drawing, after deleting the previous version.
Is it perfect? No. Was it worth the effort? I think so, but that remains to be seen when and if the model ever gets printed. In any case, it was fun doing it and I think it looks pretty cool.
One thing that I am realizing is that one could spend a life time on a model like this if every detail was included. Obviously, this isn’t going to happen so the trick becomes deciding what to try to model, and what to ignore. Of course, due to the scale, many items are too small to even consider trying to model, but there are still a lot of features that would show up on a model that probably won’t be included. We’ll see.
What to do next? Hmmmmm…..