Banner Ad 1

My Gato RCABS style

R/C Submarine modelers

My Gato RCABS style

Postby SteveNeill » Mon Aug 03, 2009 6:48 pm

My crazy friend Wayne Frey sent me this awhile back and he had started it but not finished. He had joined the hull and added the drains and a few other details but the rest was mine to do.

I never liked the hull cut so I instead just slipped the WTC in through the open deck. Slipped in like a charm. Saved a lot of work and that cut.

Next I converted the Cylinder from gas to RCABS. It was very easy to do.

I also used the included kit props. They worked great!

This boat runs on 4 ch. The bow plans can be manually folded down and their position set or changed. I use an APC and she dives very level and smooth without functional bow planes.

In the video you will see decks awash. When I trimmed her at home she sat a great deal higher. Not the true scale water line. as you can do with the additional low pressure pump, but close enough. I wanted to keep this little boat simple as possible. But when I got to the lake I couldn't get her to less than decks awash and I couldn't dive. Something had changed and as it later turned out there was residual air in the bladder I didn't remove before running. Rather than notice that, I added wait. When I got home I re trimmed her in the pool and the shot of her in the pool is the actual running water line I have now with RCABS alone. Not bad! All I did was make sure that bladder was dead flat.

This has got to be smoothest running small boat I have. Easy to set up to. Remove the one AFT screw, slide the deck off, drop in the WTC and go. One brass brace holds the WTC in postion. You can see it going accross the ballast section in the picture. Two screws hold it there. Other than that you hook up the two dog bone couplers and the two shafts to the rudder and dive planes.

I use a 2100 2S li-poly battery that loads in the front section while still in the boat. It lasts over an hour. I have an on-off switch that a 1/8th shaft through a seal in the aft end cap activates. I don't even have to remove the deck entirely to turn it off and on. Just remove the one screw aft and lift up a bit and I can access the switch.

Here's a little video my friend Reid shot. The Vosper is mine too. We had a nice day. Oh and not one drop leaked in anywhere. ;)

Steve
Image

Image

Image

Image

Here's the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fX9-rLXwTXE

It's about halfway in.
User avatar
SteveNeill
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 520
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:13 pm
Location: LA

Postby cnutting » Mon Aug 03, 2009 6:55 pm

Is that a Big Dave cylinder Steve? I will be going RCABS with mine. Thought about gas for a while, but looks like you're getting plenty of lift. Besides, my PARCHE RCABS cylinder has been practically bulletproof. Why mess with success??

Can we get some tube & bladder dimensions?
Then this is a day of Independence.
For all the Munchkins and their descendants.
User avatar
cnutting
Registered User
 
Posts: 50
Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2009 5:59 am
Location: Boston, MA

Postby SteveNeill » Mon Aug 03, 2009 7:01 pm

No Chris that was a D&E Wayne sent me with it. He suggested I convert it to RCABS because he was going to do it.

It turned out to be a simply enough mod. Works great. I don't have a single gas boat anymore.

Even the big 1/32 VIIC is RCABS-R with a low pressure pump for surface trim.

Steve
User avatar
SteveNeill
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 520
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:13 pm
Location: LA

Postby cnutting » Mon Aug 03, 2009 7:23 pm

Funny... That's what I have. An old D&E WTC 3 Mod 2. What size bladder did you use? Di you add on to the cylinder at all?
Then this is a day of Independence.
For all the Munchkins and their descendants.
User avatar
cnutting
Registered User
 
Posts: 50
Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2009 5:59 am
Location: Boston, MA

Postby SteveNeill » Mon Aug 03, 2009 7:33 pm

I used BD's large bladder. I forget the size. But it nearly filled the section. This was the Gato D&E WTC intended for the boat not what you have.

I didn't change a thing except some of the seals and added the bladder system. Dead easy.

Steve
User avatar
SteveNeill
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 520
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:13 pm
Location: LA

Postby cnutting » Mon Aug 03, 2009 7:39 pm

Can I get length/dia of the sections then?
Then this is a day of Independence.
For all the Munchkins and their descendants.
User avatar
cnutting
Registered User
 
Posts: 50
Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2009 5:59 am
Location: Boston, MA

Postby SteveNeill » Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:08 pm

It's 2.5 as I recall Chris and at that it just slips in without that cut to the hull.

Steve
User avatar
SteveNeill
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 520
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:13 pm
Location: LA

Postby SteveNeill » Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:10 pm

I'll post a video I did of the mod in operation to help others here that might want to do this. If you think that will be of help?

Steve
User avatar
SteveNeill
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 520
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:13 pm
Location: LA

Postby SteveNeill » Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:37 pm

User avatar
SteveNeill
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 520
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:13 pm
Location: LA

Postby cnutting » Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:19 pm

Thanks Steve!
Then this is a day of Independence.
For all the Munchkins and their descendants.
User avatar
cnutting
Registered User
 
Posts: 50
Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2009 5:59 am
Location: Boston, MA

Postby SteveNeill » Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:27 pm

Sure thing Chris. The pump is in the front compartment with the servo, micro switch, and valve. It leaves plenty of room for the li-poly 2100 2S pack.

To get the bladder in I just cut a section I can remove in the ballast section. Hockey tape holds it in place and I have yet to replace the tape in many runs.

Steve
User avatar
SteveNeill
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 520
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:13 pm
Location: LA

Postby SteveNeill » Mon Aug 03, 2009 10:56 pm

Here's a picture I found of the WTC alone Chris.


Image
User avatar
SteveNeill
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 520
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:13 pm
Location: LA

Postby SteveNeill » Tue Aug 04, 2009 12:18 am

LOL! Good one.

Steve
User avatar
SteveNeill
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 520
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:13 pm
Location: LA

Re: Pipe Size???????????????????????????????????????????????

Postby Sub culture » Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:45 am

sunworksco wrote:Every experienced builder gives the nominal wtc pipe size but never gives the OD and ID.


Generally it's about 3mm or 1/8". You can go smaller when diameter goes below about 2" or 50mm, but make sure you know what your doing.

This applies for extruded plastic tubing. GRP laminates metal etc. can go a lot thinner as they're generally more rigid.

My highly scientific method of dealing with this, is to sit my backside on the tubing. If it can take that without squishing up, it's good to go.
'Why are you staring at an empty pond?'

Want to dive your boat in crystal clear water? Then you had better Dive-in- http://www.diveintomodelsubmarines.co.uk
User avatar
Sub culture
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 2877
Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2003 6:55 am
Location: London, UK

Postby SteveNeill » Tue Aug 04, 2009 2:05 pm

It doesn't bother me at all. I just send a PM to the SOB and ask for those numbers should I need them for my own project. ;)

Steve
User avatar
SteveNeill
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 520
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:13 pm
Location: LA

Next

Return to R/C Modeler

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users

cron