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Water Pump, what options are there?

R/C Submarine modelers

Postby Warpatroller » Tue Mar 24, 2009 3:35 am

rockhopper037 wrote:Junglelord

So if we take BigSax's idea and add rva1945's WD40 tube is this what we get?
Image


Any reason why the bladder bag couldn't be replaced in the above diagram with a rigid plastic ballast tank?
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snort?

Postby tincanrider » Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:51 am

Hi. I have been following the post on this BUT I am now totaly confused about the WD-40 tube, what parts exectally are you using from a wd-40 can or am I missing the point entirley?
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Postby junglelord » Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:34 pm

You know, the red thin tube that comes with the WD-40.
:D

I do not see why a rigid tank would not work.
But I am a newbie, I know very little.
Maybe the fact the bag can deform is important.
The rigid tank, not so much.
LOL.
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Postby junglelord » Tue Mar 24, 2009 1:18 pm

Ok, I went looking for his threads.
The gentleman who did the bag with the WD 40 nozzel.
It only vents air basicly due to its small diamater.
This allows the bag to resume shape faster.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_77752 ... tm#7775217


here is a quote from the originator of the vaccum pipe about how he figured out how to glue this nozzel to the bag in a water tight fashion.
Plastic screw with a hole drilled, two O rings, plastic nut and washer....pretty simple.
In my system I combine a cheap, practical, effective and easy way to have static dive capability in our RC subs.

Most (water) pump system compress air in a tank, which must be very strong, the pump intself must be stronger, not to mention the current drain. AND you need a valve. All of this is expensive and most modellers just try to buy the system because it is quite complicated to homebuild.

My theory was proved, because I designed it many years ago, and I just tested it now, I admit I feel proud and happy. My 1:144 trumpeter Seawolf will be in the shipyard soon!

As for the tube, well, in my first try (video below), using a 500cc bag, I glued the tube that comes with the W..40 spray, you know.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9ME3slfbKU

But the glue didn't work well with the plastic bag, so I came to this idea: a nylon 4mm wide screw, with a 0.5 mm (25.4 mm = 1 in.) hole through it, the screw, with an o-ring, is inserted in the bag, inside-out, protruding, another o-ring from the outside, a nut and a washer, the two o-rings provide the sealing. Attaching the screw to the bag was the difficult part.

A hose connected to the screw, then the screw and the hose are the air exhaust/intake. The water intake is simpler, a brass tube sealed to the bag intake, connected to the pump.


The wire should work, as long as you can effectively attach it to the bag. The bag (a picture included in this post) is made of polyethylene, or maybe Polypropylene, which are hard to glue to anything. Better a mechanical attachment, as mine.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_78176 ... tm#7817619
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Postby aquadeep » Tue Mar 24, 2009 5:27 pm

If glueing a small tube tom a bag just go with the more simpler bag system that junglelord first showed it works well and is cheap.

I personaly like a riged tank and venting it the way I do with 2 one way valves in this way there is no worry about a bag rupture,remember a rubber bag will break down in clorinated water and even over time in fresh water.The bag used in the SB-1 sub is a heavy duty bag with reinforced fabrick and is quite thick should last a long time.

Back to pumps ,the mini paristolic pump I found will iliminate the need for a solinoid valve ,just one one way valve ,no need for pressure sensor.

But for larger subs the gear pump is best or all out air compressor system.

Ill post the mini pump later after testing.


Dave :D
"I like submarine comanders ,they don't have time for bull!!" and
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