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watertight box v watertight cylinder...

R/C Submarine modelers

Water tight boxs

Postby Mike Dory » Sat Nov 15, 2008 3:27 pm

Guy's - Getting back to the posted question. In my modeling experence of Subs, going back to 1958. I have used both cylinders and boxes, both have good points and bad Cylinders tend to do better in smaller scale boats. Where your overall size is smaller and the number of servos are just the minimum, say rudder and stern planes. However, when you get into larger scale boats and your trying to do more things like working torpedoes doors, turning Radar, R.D.F. loops, guns that turn and train ETC. Then your going to need a box. In days (or years) gone by we used to have squared top servoes these were matched up with squared brass tubing from the hobby shop and soldered on to 1/8 round brass stock. this of course, goes through one of Sub-tec's bulkhead o-rings mounted in the lid of your box. This will allow for more room to move more items in a small space. then could be done in a cylinder end cap. Speeking of Lids for water tight boxs. Make sure they are at least 3/16 thick and made from Laxen, don't use plexiglass, as this will crack over time. Yes it takes longer to remove for maintance but will give you more room to mount servo's. My Type XX1 U-boat in 1/32 scale, does 39 differnt things. You can see it on the Photo gallery. I would not have been able to get all that to work without a water tight box. I will also tell you bigger boats tend to get heavier as the years go by....... Best Wishes Mike Dory
Mike Dory
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Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2004 7:30 pm
Location: Lake Elsinore Ca. (Winter time)

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