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u-47 with a diference

R/C Submarine modelers

u-47 with a diference

Postby uk_scorpion » Mon May 21, 2007 7:16 pm

hi, at the moment im doing the track rail.after pushing the base frame in to the pressure vessel and marking the position where the 2x 40mm track rail got to go,what do i do with the HP strip? clue it in to the pipe all the way through,so the track rail can follow it,or do i remove it and the the x2 40mm track rail strips do the job.surely the frame will twist around and will have a job finding the 2nd track rail peace on the other end when you re conect both halfs. maybe im wrong as im new to thise type of model.by the way the manual didnt explain at all what you supose to do with the HP strip in the end.
Last edited by uk_scorpion on Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby uk_scorpion » Thu May 24, 2007 8:27 pm

ok i sorted it,moved on since.also done a slight mod to track rail guide
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1) i deceided to put the front hydroplaine servo at the front underneath the battery tray.the hydroplaine servo rod can now be disconected from the flood compartment.
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2)slight mod done to the rudder rods suporting tubes.i notice the rods where leading up to it to much of a angle,so what i done i shorten the tubes for the rods to run straight at it.
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3)just to give it a nice finish look,i added a prop shaft bush.

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Postby uk_scorpion » Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:50 am

change of plan regarding the disconection of the front hydroplaine,maybe thise will work better.
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rear section can be moved with out disturbing the WTC.
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most of the tray is now aluminium for extra strengh.
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also changed the screw retainer.1/4 outer of a prop shaft of a hydro boat was used with a 4mm studing running through for extra strengh.allen key was driven in for a firm grip.
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change to rudder retaining rod linkage.stock one tense to come of to easy.even tryed a bit of tube at the end to hold the clevis together,but got to much friction.
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change to propshaft/motor couplings from stock to thise.
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Last edited by uk_scorpion on Sat Oct 06, 2007 4:34 pm, edited 10 times in total.
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Postby Davy » Fri Jul 13, 2007 6:58 am

Hi UK-Scorpion,

Nice photos and an interesting build.

Just a thought - best principle is not to tolerate any water leaks, so a water detector and alarm maybe better for you than a pump. - and save you some space too.

Maplin (in the UK) sell a water alarm as a Velleman kit (Code VX97F for a fiver) This is quite small and you can hear it close to, even when the sub is closed up.

Davy
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Postby uk_scorpion » Fri Jul 13, 2007 1:42 pm

thanks davy for the tip,wasnt sure anyway how it would react regarding stoping water coming back through the pipe in to the wtc.of course the wtc has to be watertide,just a safety procaution thats all.

best regards
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Postby SteveUK » Wed Sep 05, 2007 8:13 pm

Hi uk_scorpion, interesting build and mods.

A few questions I would like to ask..
1) Do the prop shafts have stuffing boxes or is the method a well greased shaft (as with the Robbe Seawolf kit) :?:
2) The control linkeage which double backs - presumeably this goes forward to drive the fwd hydroplanes. Is this to make removal of the wtc easier :?: so if you hadn't made this change the push rod would exit the front end cap and so removal of the wtc proceedure involved disconnecting the pushrod link to fwd planes (via removal of an access panel) :?:
"...Eeeexcellent..."
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Postby uk_scorpion » Thu Sep 06, 2007 3:25 pm

hi Steve,

thanks for looking at my pictures,and would like to have my opinion on it.
first of all,i like to say,thise is my idea not thinking it is better then the stock setup.is just im more happy with it,and you never know some one like it as well,but is up to the indivitual wich way he or she wants to go about it.
ok now to your quation regarding the front hydroplaine setup.i been reading and looking it up on regarding the positioning of the front hydroplaine servo where to put it.i ended up puting it at the front under the battery tray.
now i had two choices where to run the linkage rod,through the front wtc cup,wich means i had to drill a hole in it.also bit dificult in getting acces to the linkage if need be.
so i deceided to have it coming out of the back wtc cup.i just unscrew the joint,(shown in picture)and pull out the frame with no problem.im running the rod through a carbon tube,so it want flex.
ok to your other quation regarding the driveshaft.at the moment i have to use plenty of grease,but im looking to upgrade it with the mikes subworks sbs stuffing box tubes with seals.
at the moment im doing the water test for the wtc with the stock driveshaft setup.
not easy to do what you want to do because i got three models on the go wich im building so little time i got in between my job and hobby.
ok i hope thise info was any use to you,but im sure you will deceide wich way you want to go.
i will release more pictures soon
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Postby SteveUK » Thu Sep 06, 2007 7:23 pm

Oh thanks for the explanations, uk_scorpion. Actually I think your idea for the fwd plane pushrod is a good one - so all the connections from WTC to control surfaces are in one place. It makes sense.

I guess that since the Robbe U-47 is a dynamic diver in theory it really shouldn't be going too deep, and for shallow dives the greased shafts work fine.

But I see you are planning to upgrade to shaft seals at some point. Where do you get your "mikes subworks shaft seals" from over here :?:
"...Eeeexcellent..."
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Postby uk_scorpion » Thu Sep 06, 2007 10:20 pm

Steve,at the moment i only know the ones in America.you could post a quation though regarding optaining those seals in the UK maybe.
also what i was going to say was,if you are interested in my progress,i also belong to the submarines- rc groups i go there under the same log on name and the same title header.
anyway is 03:15 am and i should be in bed by now,so i wish you all the best and keep the good work up and going

best regards
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Postby Wheelerdealer » Fri Sep 07, 2007 4:06 am

You could always get them direct from the manufacturer, who have been based in the UK as of 2004
http://www.pandanmodelboats.co.uk/acata ... e_282.html :D
Ramesh
www.rcmodelsubmarines.co.uk
----------------------------------------------------
Whaddya mean, I need a license to do that?!
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Postby uk_scorpion » Fri Sep 07, 2007 5:29 am

wheelerdealer,thanks for the info wonder if they are better regarding keeping the water out.i have seen them and i notice the tube are a lot shorter to the stock ones.also what is the lifespan of thise seals.also what do the modeler do with them,clue the tubes in,or place them in such a way so you can remove them if needed.like to hear from some one who actualy used them for a while,not just ones or twice.

best regards
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Postby uk_scorpion » Sat Oct 06, 2007 4:41 pm

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front section with exstended lugs,wich realy helped in lining up the centre and front section.
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Postby uk_scorpion » Sat Oct 06, 2007 5:02 pm

removable conning tower
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Postby uk_scorpion » Sat Oct 06, 2007 5:08 pm

and why not,home made conning tower deck
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everything ready for the back section to be bolted on
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Postby uk_scorpion » Fri Jun 27, 2008 6:30 pm

just a few more pictures
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