Banner Ad 1

Fleet boat deck

R/C Submarine modelers

Postby USS Silversides » Mon Nov 03, 2003 5:18 pm

Hi, I'm scratch building a 1:72 scale model of a Gato fleetboat (Silversides 236) and I would like to put on the slatted wooden deck that is typical of the Gato class. The only problem is that I can't find strips of wood, or a material that looks like wood. Any suggestions? ???

Thanks in advance,
Jonathan
USS Silversides
Registered User
 
Posts: 198
Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2003 4:25 pm

Postby Ramius-II » Tue Nov 04, 2003 12:12 pm

Hi Jonathan:
One place that has a minature lumber yard is Micro-Mark. www.micromark.com. On page 66 they have precision milled basswood strips starting from 1/32 x 1/32 and going up. :) You may wish to get their catalog and do not blame me if you end up spending a fortune with them. :;): Things like their lath and other items are great!

Ed
Just one more wire!
SC# 2268
WB6NSN
User avatar
Ramius-II
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 394
Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:35 pm
Location: Lomita California

Postby TMSmalley » Tue Nov 04, 2003 2:13 pm

Jim Butt used wood on his fleetboat and said he'd never do it again. Even after sealing well, warping was a problem, I think.

Some guys use styrene strips of the appropriate width. I measured the deck battens on the USS Cod and the USS Cobia and they are just a hair under 2". You should be able to find styrene stips that are roughly 1/72 of that - or at least danged close.

If you have your heart set on wood, check with Jack Kocher - he does a super job with wood. You may email him by going to his website and clicking on "Contact" .

Image

Jack Kocher - the SubComm MI website




Edited By TMSmalley on 1067969671
Tim Smalley
User avatar
TMSmalley
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 2487
Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2003 8:58 am
Location: Edina, Minnesota USA

Postby Silent Hunter » Tue Nov 04, 2003 11:46 pm

This may sound crude, but don't discount it until you've checked it out. Take a look at the back side of a piece of Formica. It's tough, it's cheap, it's thin, very strong, easy to cut, waterproof, won't rot, won't swell or warp, machines beautifully, and......................................... looks just like WOOD! :)
Richard Frisch
Subcommittee member #2348
User avatar
Silent Hunter
Registered User
 
Posts: 45
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 5:13 pm
Location: Bellevue, Washington

Postby USS Silversides » Wed Nov 05, 2003 8:43 pm

Thanks guys!
I am NOT bent on using wood and I love the Formica idea, thanks Silent Hunter! :) This is my first R/C model, and as I'm sure you all know, beginners have a lot of questions. One thing I've been wondering is, what is the advantage (or disadvantage) to using a solenoid vs. servo to flood the tank. One other question; I think I am going to purchase a Airtronics VG600 radio. Those two auxiliary switches at the top of the transmitter: do they have spring return, do they stay put? Reason I ask is because my bow dive plane rig-in-rig-out mechanism will run of one of these switches, and I don't want to have to hold down the switch in order to use the planes!!! ???

Thanks, Jonathan
USS Silversides
Registered User
 
Posts: 198
Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2003 4:25 pm

Postby TMSmalley » Wed Nov 05, 2003 10:20 pm

You'll get lots of practice cutting to get enough pieces of the exact same width to do a boat that size. :D

Solenoid vs. Servo = generic servo about $12.00, solenoid $25 and up. Also one servo can be rigged to both blow the ballast AND vent the tank. Not so easy with a solenoid.

The top switches on my V600 are non-spring loaded.




Edited By TMSmalley on 1068085456
Tim Smalley
User avatar
TMSmalley
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 2487
Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2003 8:58 am
Location: Edina, Minnesota USA

Postby USS Silversides » Wed Nov 05, 2003 10:25 pm

Practice makes perfect!!! :D
USS Silversides
Registered User
 
Posts: 198
Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2003 4:25 pm

Postby USS Silversides » Wed Nov 05, 2003 10:26 pm

Think I'll stick with the servo.
USS Silversides
Registered User
 
Posts: 198
Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2003 4:25 pm

Postby Bob the Builder » Thu Nov 06, 2003 11:41 am

I'm running the same setup on my Nautilus. The VG600 has two aux switches. The flap switch on the upper right is perfect for the ballast system (up-blow, center-neutral, down-vent). I'll be using the other aux. switch for practical lighting (20 bulbs).

I originally set up my ballast system to run on a solenoid. It required the use of Skip's SES-II switch, a Clippard blow solenoid, and a Ships N' Things vent valve. Quite expensive, all told.

I've since switched to a servo operated setup. If you're planning on using Propel, don't use the solenoid (at least not the Clippard). The seals in the valve will deteriorate with the exposure to gas over time, turning into a sticky goo. If you're planning on running the solenoid, you'll need to go with a more friendly product like air or regulated CO2. I think that there is also a non-butane based airbrush propellant available, but it's a bit more expensive than Propel.

I'm going to try to post some pics of my completed ballast system on my site in the next couple of days. I've added a clear viewing window to the back side so that I can check the operation of the servo in the tank. In the meantime, I do have pics of the system posted on my Electronics Page..

Image

Image

Image
Bob Martin,
RCSub homepage: http://www.rc-sub.com
User avatar
Bob the Builder
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 781
Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2003 9:40 am
Location: Naples, FL

Postby USS Silversides » Thu Nov 06, 2003 8:53 pm

Nice site and nice Nautilus! I appreciate the comments on valves, think I'll use the good ol' reliable servo. :) I've seen a simple ballast system using a tire valve attached to the Propel tank which is inside the ballast tank. There is hole in the side of the ballast tank that is covered with a vacuum plug (I think) attached to a metal rod that slides lateraly. So in other words: the little aux. switch is moved down and the servo pulls on the rod pulling the vacuum plug away from the hole in the ballast tank, flooding the tank. To blow, you move the switch up adn the servo pushes the rod the other way, flexing the vacuum plug, and pushing the ?core? of the valve, releasing Propel. I hope that made sense!!!
:D

Jonathan
USS Silversides
Registered User
 
Posts: 198
Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2003 4:25 pm

Postby USS Silversides » Thu Nov 06, 2003 8:58 pm

Nice site and nice Nautilus! I appreciate the comments on valves, think I'll use the good ol' reliable servo. :) I've seen a simple ballast system using a tire valve attached to the Propel tank which is inside the ballast tank. There is hole in the side of the ballast tank that is covered with a vacuum plug (I think) attached to a metal rod that slides lateraly. So in other words: the little aux. switch is moved down and the servo pulls on the rod pulling the vacuum plug away from the hole in the ballast tank, flooding the tank. To blow, you move the switch up adn the servo pushes the rod the other way, flexing the vacuum plug, and pushing the ?core? of the valve, releasing Propel. I hope that made sense!!!
:D

Jonathan
USS Silversides
Registered User
 
Posts: 198
Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2003 4:25 pm

Postby USS Silversides » Fri Nov 07, 2003 3:12 pm

Back to the deck; I tried cutting Formica to the right size, :angry: kind of frusturating! I don't mean however that I've dumped the idea, but I'd appreciate some ideas on how to cut very, very small strips. Tim- you mentioned styrene strips, where would I get strips that small? ???

Jonathan
USS Silversides
Registered User
 
Posts: 198
Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2003 4:25 pm

Postby subdude » Fri Nov 07, 2003 4:38 pm

Jonathan,
I used evergreen styrene strips (available from most hobby and craft stores) for my deck, glued to a styrene sheet base. Very time consuming, but came out okay. Never, never again will I use wood! what a warped mess, even though I had it sealed multiple times.

Happy building!

Jim Butt




Edited By subdude on 1068237562
Underwater, the ONLY way to fly!

SubCommittee member #0069 (since the dawn of time)
subdude
SubCommittee Member
 
Posts: 389
Joined: Mon Feb 17, 2003 12:10 am
Location: South Central PA

Postby USS Silversides » Fri Nov 07, 2003 11:36 pm

Thanks Mr. Butt,
I've seen your boat several times on Ray Mason's tapes; nice sub! Now of course your boat is bigger than mine (yours is 1:48 I think, and mine is 1:72) so the strips will be that much smaller (I think for 1:72 it turns out a bit less than 1/32 of an inch). You mentioned I could get the styrene at craft stores and hobby shops. I live in the "thumb" of Michigan (at least that's what we Michiganders call it :laugh: ) unfortunately the "thumb" seems to be almost a desert as far as hobby shops go :angry: . That leaves craft stores and the Internet.
Also, how does air and water circulate through the deck if you glue it to one big piece of styrene? Do you drill holes in it?

Jonathan
USS Silversides
Registered User
 
Posts: 198
Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2003 4:25 pm

Postby USS Silversides » Fri Nov 07, 2003 11:45 pm

Just found this on the Internet:http://www.swiftsite.com/rosemonthobby/evgreen.htm How about the .010 X .020?
USS Silversides
Registered User
 
Posts: 198
Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2003 4:25 pm

Next

Return to R/C Modeler

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users

cron