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U47 trouble, need help

R/C Submarine modelers

Postby g2tiger » Fri Jan 09, 2004 6:00 pm

Gents,

Sorry for not keeping up on the leak. I have been busy with the holidays. I have a new O ring and will try some of the suggested checks. Some of the things I have done is increase the length of the open area where the joined screw enters the equipment tray to allow the joiner screw to pull tighter, I checked and sanded some of the outter skin on the model in the event it was not allowing a tight seal and I have the new O ring to try with some grease.

One interesting thing is the models joint looks great without the o ring!? The hull pulls up nice and tight. All of the lips around the wtc look good, no damage. One thing is that the equipment tray is not secured at the bottom support to the rear part of the wtc. Could this be part of my problem?

Charlie
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Postby g2tiger » Sat Jan 24, 2004 4:37 pm

Good news!

I have finally had achance to try some of the tips and tricks you fine gents have provided on the board. I located some Silicone and applyed it to the O ring. I put some pressure in the wtc and then poured some water with dish soap in it on the joint. I did not see any bubbles as I did before. My next step will be to locate a pool or fill up the kiddie pool and see what gives.

I was also able to begin the repair work on the Accurate Armor tower. It was damaged and had two holes near the real of the tower from using the dremil tool to hollow and thin the inside to lighten the unit.

So far the new year is looking good. I had been giving some thought of selling and trying a different model. When I decided on the U47 it was supposed to be a simple job. Perhaps I should have kept the Type XXI, haha!

Any thoughts on the side rails of the model as they come from the Mfg? Are they too big? They look too big/tall.

Charlie
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Postby g2tiger » Sat Jan 24, 2004 4:39 pm

One more question,

What is the recomended tool to use on the hex nut for the Robbe? The key I have bottoms out and is difficult to get back in the hex socket in side the sub. Aparrently, this is a replacement for the screwdriver head on the tightener rod.

Charlie
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Postby tsenecal » Sat Jan 24, 2004 10:43 pm

Charlie,

both of the tools I use are basically identical. One is a basic "L" shaped allen wrench that has been cut off and then soldered onto an extension "T" bar so that it will reach all the way into the nose of the boat. It cost me nothing but time, since i already had all the parts in my parts bin. I mis-placed that one day, and had to go buy a screw-driver style allen wrench that was long enough to reach into the hull, and that cost me about $15. Of course as soon as I bought the replacement, I found the original.

As far as I know, there is no tool that actually comes with the sub.
Tim
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Postby Joeangi » Wed Feb 11, 2004 5:21 pm

Just an observation, but is your equipment tray cracked/ broken? If it is not properly secured, when you tighten the main screw, one side of the back cap will not be tight. I have not had any leaks on mine. I also keep my "o" ring smeared with silicone o ring grease.

I have not had any roll over problems yet, ( I am adding the AA tower now) Are you running the stock "box" batteries, or are you running sets of nicads?

I wound up cutting the lead bar in half as it originally sunk as well. Keep as much lead, as low in the keel as possible, until you are happy with how it sits.

Get back to me and let me know how you are making out.
Joe
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